Are you curious about what exactly unisex clothing is and where to buy it? This article has the answers you’re looking for!
![Modern Unisex Clothing](https://www.themodestman.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Modern-Unisex-Clothing.jpg)
Unisexโฆgender neutralโฆandrogynous. These three terms can be applied to much of todayโs clothing.
The definitions are somewhat ambiguous and may be used interchangeably by some. Perhaps it is all semantics, yet the terminology differences reflect the times in which they were coined.
Iโm going to admit two things that may influence my perspective about unisex clothing: first, Iโm female, and second, most of my wardrobe was either purchased in menโs departments or could be considered unisex.
This is not to say that I identify as anything other than female, or attempt to dress androgynously, itโs just that todayโs society favors unisex designs: T-shirts and turtlenecks, button shirts, jeans, khakis and blazers are all part of unisex styles.
The unisex movement may have made womenโs clothing more masculine, without becoming unfeminine. In fact, part of the appeal of unisex fashion is the contrast between the wearer and the clothes.
This can actually call attention to the body wearing the clothes. A close-fitting sweater accentuates the wearersโ physique.
That begs the question: What is the difference between unisex, androgynous and gender neutral?
The term gender was first used in 1955 to describe social and cultural aspects of whether a person was male or female, regardless of their biological sex. Next, the term unisex was coined in the 1960s in reference to garments that were intended to be worn by either sex.
Most unisex clothing was, and is, based on male styles. Fit may be adjusted, some new fabrics may be introduced, but it is still basically menโs clothing adjusted to include women wearing it.
Everything Old is New Again
The term androgynous was first used in England in the 17th century, but the term became fashionable again in the 1970s in reference to the glam rock scene.
It refers to someone whose appearance is neither clearly feminine nor masculine โ having an ambiguous sexual identity with both masculine and feminine characteristics.
Androgynous clothes are meant to blur the line between blatant male or female characteristics. David Bowie, as Ziggy Stardust, is one of the first, and clearest, examples of androgynous dressing.
He embraced make-up, styled and colored hair, and wore clothing that, unlike most pedestrian clothing, made you wonder whether it was intended for men or women.
People who embrace androgyny want to look neither male nor female to avoid gender stereotypes. The clothing is more fluid and loose, favors dark colors and often has boxy structures.
Gender neutral is a more modern term that is similar to unisex. Its original purpose was to be gender-inclusive for those in the LGBTQ community, as well as those outside it.
Itโs a reaction to limited off-the-rack options of standard sizing that doesnโt really fit or flatter the body of either males or females. Itโs meant to be non-judgmental โ considering both men and women equally in the design process.
This is especially important with the increased visibility of the LGBTQ+ community and the emphasis on political correctness and inclusion today.
A deep look into fashion and its history shows that while many think that unsex dressing is a new trend, its latest incarnation started 70 years ago.
Whether you use the term unisex, androgynous or gender-neutral, everyone from couture designers to affordable mass-market retailers are embracing it.
Modern Origins of Unisex Clothing
I believe the origin of modern unisex clothing is actually World War II when women had to join the workforce in positions where pants were necessary.
With the advent of peace and in an attempt to return to idyllic days, previous gender stereotypes were reinforced and people reverted back to separate rigid dress codes for men and women.
Most people consider the 1950โs, with Marlon Brando and James Dean popularizing jeans and t-shirts, as the advent of the modern unisex clothing trend. This served as a democratization of clothing by defying the suit generation.
What used to be just for the working class was now popular for everyone. It is hard to believe that in an era of fast everything, especially fashion, these two pieces of clothing are as popular today as they were 70 years ago.
The next major movement occurred in 1968 when runways featured fashions inspired by the space race and futurism.
That year the Paris runways of Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges, and Paco Rabanne all featured egalitarian โSpace Ageโ fashions that highlighted simple, sleek silhouettes, graphic patterns and new, synthetic fabrics.
The inspiration was future societies that didnโt differentiate between men and women โ style wise. While it was short-lived, this trend had lasting implications. The 1970โs Disco era was a prime example of synthetic fabrics with similar patterns and designs for both men and women.
The tuxedo became a unisex garment in the 1960โs when Yves Saint Laurent introduced his Le Smoking line. The fashion house has continued to include versions of tuxedos and menโs suits designed for women through the 2019 lines.
Variations of the tuxedo have come full circle: originally a male garment, it was embraced by women with pants or skirts. Today, menโs tuxedos can also feature skirts.
Comparing Saint Laurentโs tuxedo with Billy Porterโs 2019 Oscar tuxedo by Christian Siriano is a great example of how style and gender, and what is appropriate for either, have evolved.
The 1990โs saw a continuation of androgynous dressing โ even its expansion. This is especially true for runway shows and the entertainment industry. Prince and the Revolution had men and women both wearing lace, ruffles and make-up.
The Grunge scene of the 1990s is the next major milestone in unisex dressing. Kurt Cobain was photographed for the cover of Face magazine in 1993 wearing a dress, yet the typical grunge โuniformโ was jeans, flannel shirts, combat boots and knit caps for both men and women.
Grunge made the tomboy aesthetic acceptable for women.
Most recently, designers have been blurring the lines of gender-specific fashion โ using silhouettes, fabrics and trims (embroidery and pearls), that were once associated with female fashion and applying it to menโs fashion.
In 2015 Gucci embraced red lace shirts, chiffon pussy bow button-ups and high ruffled collars. That same year Yves Saint Laurent used heels with tight skinny jeans and Givenchy layered skirts over pants.
Louis Vuittonโs 2016 show featured Jaden Smith in gender-defying clothing. The brand added fluorescent pink and ruffles on many of its tailored pieces.
Unisex Clothing Brands
Unisex and androgynous clothing has always found a home on the runway. Most unisex fashion is still extremely high end and inaccessible to the masses, both by price and by sizing (they are designed and sized for slender people).
It is much easier for haute couture to show radical pieces that arenโt meant for the average person.
Jo Paoletti, the author of several books on fashion and gender says:
The difference between avant-garde unisex and the later version is the distinction between boundary-defying designs, often modeled by androgynous-looking models, and a less threatening variation, worn by attractive heterosexual couples.
Never fear, there are a number of accessible choices available for those who want to expand their clothing options to include unisex items.
First, many men donโt limit themselves to shopping in menโs departments. Since so much of the womenโs market is based on unisex styles, slender men who need a different cut, or who prefer more color and pattern, added trims such as ruffles, or different silhouettes shop in womenโs stores.
Secondly, many mass marketers have embraced selling unisex clothing. In fact, The Gap, one of the first gender-inclusive stores, was founded in 1969.
While they are not overt in advertising themselves as a unisex store, they offer a basic range of simple unisex separates that include t-shirts, trousers, jeans, sweaters and jackets that are affordable, accessible, and have the capacity to transcend age, gender, and trends.
The British department store Selfridges, has devoted three floors of their London flagship store exclusively to gender-neutral clothing.
Fast fashion giants H&M and Zara have also introduced unisex lines.
Below is a listing of brands that are devoted to offering unisex options. Most are accessible to the average person, and all are noteworthy.
69
69 is a Los Angeles based company that defines itself as a โnon-gender, non-demographic clothing lineโ.
They offer comfortable, if boxy, oversized and deconstructed unisex clothing by appointment or online.
Some of their pieces are more cutting-edge and have a 90โs street-smart aesthetic. They use high-quality denim and are purposefully mono-gender. To add to their sense of genderless fashion, their founder and designer has remained anonymous.
Toogood
Toogood is a London-based firm founded by two sisters with interests in sculpture and architecture. This has informed their design process.
They produce strong silhouettes and structural shapes in neutral colors.
They believe that โsociety is ready for the gender-neutral and unisex line of clothing. If it is cut for a man or a woman, it doesnโt matter anymore. Gender-specific clothing has lost its meaning in todayโs society.โ
In addition to menโs and womenโs clothing, they offer a line of home furnishings.
Not Equal
Not Equal offers 10 different collections that truly celebrate the โgenderless form and individualityโ.
Most are in neutral colors, with the occasional pop of color, bold lines and patterns suitable for everyone.
Their goal is to โpush boundaries while offering rational fashionโ. The line features large wrap skirts, open dresses and large shirts.
The company was founded by Fabio Costa of Project Runway fame.
Cilium
Cilium has gone through a few name changes: TillyandWilliam and Willy & Tilly. They advertise that they sell โclothes that work upsidedown, flipped and high, low & in between.โ
You can put different body parts through different holes because there is no wrong way to wear Cilium clothing.
Looking at their offerings you can understand their watchwords of transform, evolve and share. The company is โcommitted to creating clothing for all gender identities, all sexual orientations, and every shape, size and color of body.โ
Each piece can transform itself to suit multiple uses depending on how you choose to wear it. This versatile collection is offered in 6 sizes based on waist measurements ranges starting at 23โ and going up to 62โ.
Unlike some unisex clothing, Cilium is size inclusive and fairly affordable.
One DNA
One DNA is an affordable gender-neutral company that donates 50% of its profits to meaningful causes.
They offer a limited selection of t-shirts, sweats, underwear and shoes in mostly black, white, and beiges.
The t-shirts can be worn front-to-back and year-round. They believe that โthere should be no difference in fashion regarding gender, age, shape, or race.โ
Their looks are minimalist, updated basics that are well-designed and of good quality.
Sharpe Suiting
Sharpe Suiting is a bespoke tailor located in Los Angeles. They cater to those seeking androgynous suits โ namely โbutch women and trans menโ.
They have a trademarked suiting process named Andropometricsโข that takes gender-queer fashion to a new level.
LaneFortyFive
Another London company that makes un-gendered clothing by hand is LaneFortyFive.
They take their inspiration from work-wear garments such as wide-legged trousers and use beautiful fabrics such as corduroy and pure linen.
Gender Free World
Gender Free World started as a shirt company based on ethical principles. Their mission is to fit bodies in a way that haute couture doesnโt.
They emphasize inclusivity, are anti-one-size-fits-all, so that every gender-neutral body, regardless of shape, will find something that fits well and makes them feel good โ all for a reasonable price.
For instance, their looser cut left over right buttoned shirt features a hidden bust button to avoid gaping in the chest area.
They approach sizing a bit differently โ they offer 4 shapes of bodies from which to choose named Alex, Billie, Charlie and Drew, and at least 4 sizes for each.
They offer a full range of clothing from shirts and pants, to underwear and accessories. Overall, their vibe is comfortable with a distinct style.
Muttonhead
Muttonhead is a Toronto based company that makes casual unisex apparel for everyone at prices that arenโt extortionate.
Their motto is โclassic, unisex and Canadianโ.
They pay attention to the details. Their clothing is timeless, yet unique, and always on-trend. They eschew fast fashion and want their clothing to stand the test of time.
Offerings include a full range of casual and sweat clothes in sizes from XS to XXL.
Ader Error
Ader Error is based on โfashion and simplicityโ and a contemporary sensibility. While they say their clothes are minimalistic, they are not boring.
They have bright colors, lots of textures, and fine details including embroidery.
They offer a full range of products including jackets, knitwear, pants, accessories and jewelry. They accommodate everyone, fit-wise, by offering slim and oversize silhouettes.
They maintain a masculine tint towards a female market and not vice-versa.
Big Bud Press
Big Bud Press is Los Angeles unisex company that prides itself on making clothing for all bodies, including those on the curvier end of the spectrum.
Speaking of spectrums, their clothes come in a rainbow of cotton and recycled acrylic colors.
Beefcake Swimwear
Beefcake Swimwear creates 1920โs style swimsuits for all body types.
While they assumed that their audience would be LGBTQ+ based when they started the company, they have found that their customers include the full range of gender expressions and ages worldwide.
They print their suits in small patches on high-performance fabric that is environmentally responsible.
TomboyX
TomboyXโs founders (Fran & Naomi) set out to create โunderwear that anybody could feel comfortable in, regardless of where they fell on the size or gender spectrum.โ
They have expanded their offerings to include loungewear, sleepwear, swimwear, accessories and intimates.
Their sizing runs from XS to 5X and you can choose from 9 different underpants styles โ everything from a thong to 9โ boxer briefs โ and several styles of bras. They use sustainable fabrics, and โobsessively fit-test on real peopleโ.
Conclusion
Oscar de la Renta said that โFashion is about dressing according to whatโs fashionable. Style is more about being yourself.โ This is exactly the point of unisex clothing โ to find your own personal style regardless of what society dictates.
Luckily, today you no longer need to fit into a stereotype of what is male or female. Regardless of how you identify, you can shop in the menโs or womenโs department, or even at one of the growing number of stores (online or brick) that offer unisex clothing.
Lets look at things as they really are. Many men, like myself, want to wear skirts and dresses because they enjoy doing that. What we need is a full scale campaign by the clothing designers / makers and anyone else who is interested to show that we are not freaks but are just people. We are people from every walk of life, from bus drivers to architects. If men wearing dresses became mainstream then there would be a period of hype in the newspapers and on television some sensation which would after a short while settle down to being quite ordinary. Lets hear from you !
Physically, women and men are different, so when I think of fit, I think of unisex. And to fit both requires a looser design in order to accommodate both. Androgynous, to me is more about accepting and adopting a style that over time became more gender specific. Let’s not forget pink was a men’s color way longer than has it been a women’s color. In Europe buttons/zipper pulls can be on either side. But that has changed today. Women continue to wear frilly things, while men’s styles for the most part, have let that go centuries ago. I think both style and fit can be acceptable, but that also changes the perception from the beholder. As shorter men, I see men still looking to be more manly and less juvenile or boyish. Having clothes for shorter men does benefit women looking for a more butch look in better proportions. But even then, its not the same. Fit redesign is needed in order to look more manly. It’s a very interesting concept beyond basics.
I think that women are so used to having to look in men’s departments for some of the things that they want, even to get sizes that will fit, that they don’t really think about a right or wrong way to button or zipper. I don’t, I just adjust. One of the articles I used for my research spoke to men shopping in women’s departments. If you are interested it is: Unisex Clothing & Androgynous Trend found at https://www.askmen.com//style/fashion_advice/shopping-tips-for-men.html. The author talks about a male model, stylist, and fashion student. He says: “I pretty much always go straight for the women’s section. I don’t really view fashion as gendered. If you like it and it looks good on you then, whatever, wear it.” Many slim men swim in basic men’s fashions and the cut of women’s clothing actually fits them better – even women’s jeans. You may find his perspective in the article interesting.
No.
Having said that, I am much more accepting of women wearing clothes that are a bit masculine than the other way around.
But to deal with the original question regarding acceptance of this artificial trend for men being forced down our throats….NO.
NO.
No but depends on what it is, and whether it’s distinguishable as to the set it’s intended for. Example, mens and women’s shirts button from opposite sides. I know women wear men’s shirts but I could not wear a women’s for that reason and because it’s cut to flatter a woman’s physique.
Hi L,
Thanks for your comments. I’m glad that my article is useful, and TMM would be a great resource for many women. Understanding style and proportion is the same regardless of gender.
I think unisex dressing/purchasing is more prevalent that manufacturers may realize or admit. My daughter just bought me a flannel that she found at Eddie Bauer. While the sizing is men’s, the shirt was shown on both male and female mannequins. With colors being non-gender (thank goodness), most anything goes for anyone.
Thank you for this article. It’s good to see this content on here. I wonder if Brock knows how many women who lean towards masculine clothing/transmen/butch lesbians have been using this website for years for fashion tips and advice since so many of us are under 5’8″. Thanks, man ๐