• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer

The Modest Man

  • .
  • Start Here
  • Blog
  • About
  • Free Guide
Home / Clothing and Style / Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Off the Rack: What’s the Difference?

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Off the Rack: What’s the Difference?

Published on September 6, 2019 by Brock · Clothing and Style, Popular

May contain affiliate links (what's this?)

What’s the difference between off the rack, made to measure and bespoke? Which type of suit is right for you?


[Updated September 2019]

When you need a new suit, you have lots of different options these days. There are more brands to choose from than ever before.

This is great, but it can be a little overwhelming. I want to help you choose the best option for your needs and budget.

The good news is, all suit makers fall into three overarching categories:

1. Ready to wear (a.k.a., off the rack)
2. Made-to-measure
3. Bespoke

To avoid confusion, let’s talk about the word “custom” real quick.

What does “custom” mean?

Custom is used to describe anything that isn’t ready to wear. If you buy a suit off the rack and get it tailored, that’s not a custom suit. It’s just a tailored suit.

Custom means made-to-measure, fully bespoke or anything in between.

But don’t be fooled into thinking that “custom” and “bespoke” are the same thing. The word bespoke is so widely misused that its meaning has almost been lost.

A bespoke suit is way different than a made-to-measure suit that you might buy online from a company like Indochino, Oliver Wicks or Black Lapel.

A bespoke suit is made from scratch, just for you. In other words, no fabric is cut until you’ve been measured.

MTM suits, on there other hand, start from a pattern – multiple pieces of fabric that have already been cut, and are ready to be customized according to your measurements and preferences.

Bespoke is much more time intensive. It requires more fabric and more skill. It also requires a lot more money.

Just like all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon: all bespoke suits are custom, but not all custom suits are bespoke.

Now that we’ve got that cleared up, we’ll take a look at our options using three suits from my own closet:

1. Ready-to-wear (plus tailoring) – Suit Supply
2. Made-to-measure – Oliver Wicks
3. Bespoke – Alan David

Let’s take a closer look at each suit…

Ready to Wear (a.k.a., Off the Rack)

Suit Supply is one of the most popular brands for men’s suits, and for good reason. Their vertically-integrated supply chain creates a lot of value for their customers.

Suit Supply

In other words, you get a lot of bang for your buck at Suit Supply. They do have a made-to-measure program, but they mostly sell ready to wear clothing.

I wanted to see what all the hype was about, so I bought a Lazio suit in navy, size 32. Like any OTR suit, I had to get it tailored to fit my 5’6” and 120 lbs frame.

I got the pants hemmed, sleeves shortened and jacket shortened. They do these alterations in house at their retail locations.

The total price of this suit, including alterations, was $611 ($530 plus alterations).

The final product looked acceptable, although it’s clear to me that the suit was made with a taller man in mind.

I can tell just by wearing it that I’m not the ideal body type for this garment, even after getting it shortened.

It doesn’t look bad, but there’s some tension and pulling in certain places, which makes it a bit uncomfortable to wear.

Suit Supply ready-to-wear suit; notice the wrinkly sleeves and shoulder divots
Suit Supply ready-to-wear suit; notice the wrinkly sleeves and shoulder divots

After having worn custom suits for a few years, this suit just doesn’t feel very good on me. It feels a bit oversized, and the proportions are off, and it doesn’t sit or drape naturally on my body.

I appreciate the Suit Supply brand and commitment to value, but I have to admit that I’m a bit disappointed in the way their suits fit a smaller guy like me, especially considering the price.

Made-to-Measure (MTM)

Whether you buy online and submit your own measurements, or go to a showroom to get measured by a professional, most modern “custom suit” brands are selling made-to-measure (MTM) suits.

Oliver Wicks

I’m talking about Oliver Wicks, Indochino, Blank Label, Black Lapel, Knot Standard…the list goes on and on.

They all have basically the same process: you submit your measurements and select your fabric and details, then they send your order to a factory overseas (usually in China). Your suit is shipped directly to you 3-6 weeks later.

It’s a hit or miss process. For first time MTM buyers, I’d say it’s mostly miss. It’s just really hard to get a great fitting suit through the process of self-measurement. Even with “professional” tailors taking your measurements, things can go horribly wrong.

One thing I’ve learned is that there’s no correlation between how polished the brand is or how slick their retail locations are, and the actual quality and fit of their products.

In fact, I’ve had some awful experiences with brands that have super impressive fit shops, complete with slick, charismatic staff who offer you whiskey while you flip through fabric books and talk about what kind of jacket lining best suits your personality…

My point is: a nice customer experience is great, but the actual product is what matters. And your first MTM suit won’t be perfect, unless you get very lucky.

But if you’re patient and willing to really dial in your measurements, MTM can be a great option. Some of my favorite suits are MTM, including this bright navy summer weight Oliver Wicks suit I’ve been wearing a couple of years.

Compared to my Suit Supply suit, this one conforms to my body in a much more comfortable, flattering way.

Oliver Wicks made-to-measure suit (unstructured "soft shoulders" jacket)
Oliver Wicks made-to-measure suit (unstructured “soft shoulders” jacket)

I think the suit looks better on me, but perhaps more important, it feels better.

When a suit fits well, it’s actually much more comfortable. Most guys aren’t comfortable wearing suits, which is why focusing on fit can be really helpful.

For me, Oliver Wicks has been the best online MTM brand I’ve tried. Even the first suit they made for me was pretty close. After dialing in the measurements over the course of 3-4 suit, the fit is pretty much spot on.

Bespoke

I’d always wanted to buy a bespoke suit, but the price point is prohibitive. We’re talking at least $2,000, potentially much more, for one suit.

Alan David

One reason for the high price tag is the labor. Making a suit from scratch is very labor intensive, and it requires a lot of experience.

Then you have the fabric. A suit requires 3-4 yards of fabric, plus all of the trimmings (buttons, lining, collar felt, etc.). So the “cost of goods” is high, compared to a RTW or even a MTM suit.

Simply put, bespoke is expensive.

So when Alan David Custom, a 5th generation New York City suit maker, reached out and offered to make me a suit, I jumped on the opportunity.

I’d read about Alan David Custom on He Spoke Style. Brian summarized his experience as no frills bespoke, a description that made sense as soon as I stepped into the Alan David office/showroom hybrid in Manhattan.

Alan David bespoke suit basted fitting
The first fit check at Alan David’s no frills NYC shop

This article isn’t meant to serve as a proper review for Alan David Custom, but I do want to give them a shoutout for making me a great suit. My experience with this company was unique, as I’m used to the polished, customer experience focused MTM brands that target guys my age.

Alan David is different (no frills, as Brian put it). But the final product, my bespoke suit, is wonderful, which is why I’m using it as an example for this piece.

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure

Even with my favorite Oliver Wicks suit, there are minor details that aren’t quite perfect. Subtle wrinkles and pulling that most people wouldn’t notice. But you can feel it when you wear it.

The bespoke suit doesn’t look “night and day” different to an untrained eye, but it feels incredible. It’s more like wearing a pajama set than a suit. If every man had the luxury of going bespoke, I think men would complain much less about “dressing up” for special occasions or work.

A bespoke tailor sees every little asymmetry in your build. For example, I have slight swayback posture. This means there’s more curve through my lower back, compared to the average man.

Alan saw this immediately and made the appropriate adjustments to my profile. It was almost like being at the chiropractor!

Alan David Custom bespoke suit
Alan David Custom bespoke suit

What really makes the bespoke process special, though, is the basted fitting. Basically, the first time you try on your suit, it’s just stitched together with temporary thread. It’s not cut down to your exact measurement yet, so there’s plenty of room to make changes.

This step doesn’t exist in online MTM, and it’s crucial for figuring out if the shape of your suit is correct.

For example, during my basted fitting, we decided that the button stance was off. It had to be adjusted by about two inches, which is impossible to do once the suit is cut and sewn.

After the basted fitting, your suit is stitched together for good, and your try it on again. This is typically the second-to-last or final fitting. Minor adjustments will sometimes be made at this stage.

The end result is a 100% unique suit that is, quite literally, made for you – and only you.

It’s hard to describe how a bespoke suit feels on your body. The only word I can think of is perfect.

Which Type of Suit Is Best for You?

As is often the case, it really depends on your individual situation. What do you need the suit for? How many do you already have? How old are you (are you still growing)? Are you on a mission to lose weight or pack on some muscle?

Perhaps more importantly, what’s your budget? And how much time do you have?

Buying a custom suit takes a long time, especially if you go full bespoke. Online MTM might take 3-5 weeks (sometimes longer). Bespoke could take several months.

For most guys, here’s my advice:

First, try to find something that fits well off the rack. Assume it will need a little tailoring, as this is totally normal with suits. Set aside $50-100 for basic alterations, such as getting the pants hemmed, sleeves shortened and jacket taken in.

Be sure that certain “unalterable” parts fit well off the rack, such as the shoulders, hips and seat. If the sleeves are too long off the rack, make sure they don’t have functioning buttons. These make shortening the sleeves difficult and expensive.

If you can’t find anything that fits well enough off the rack, consider going custom. For most guys, this means made-to-measure. If money isn’t an issue – and/or you’re willing and able to invest in a great suit that you’ll wear for years – bespoke is definitely the way to go.

Remember: if you need suit fast, like for your buddy’s wedding next weekend, custom is not an option.

If you do go with a made-to-measure brand, you’ll probably be overwhelmed with all of the choices. I’ve reviewed many of the most popular brands, including Black Lapel, Knot Standard, Indochino, Oliver Wicks and others.

I’ve had surprisingly great experiences and unsurprisingly bad experiences. Here’s my advice:

Prioritize companies that have showrooms (or fit shops) near you. It’s much better to go get your measurements taken, in person and by a professional, than to submit your own measurements.

I’m not saying this always works out. Sometimes you’ll get a newbie “tailor” who doesn’t know what they’re doing.

But they still probably know more than you do. Plus, certain measurements like the shoulders and arms are just hard to do by yourself.

Bespoke suit vs. ready to wear suit
Bespoke (left) vs. Ready to Wear (right)

Even if you don’t live near one of these major brands, there are plenty of smaller custom clothiers around the world who serve their local market, often without any sort of online presence. Check your local Google results, Yellow Pages, Yelp, etc. Ask your tailor and dry cleaner if they can recommend anyone.

If you can’t find a local option, it’s time to go the online MTM route. Of all the companies I’ve tried out, my experience has been with Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel.

If I had to pick, I’d choose Oliver Wicks. But please understand that I’ve had a lot of time to dial in my measurements with them. Black Lapel did a great job on the first (and only) suit they made for me.

I can’t guarantee you’ll have a great experience with either of these brands. Sometimes MTM just doesn’t work out the first time. But these are the two companies I’d recommend first.

Either Way, Get It Tailored

Unless you go bespoke, you’ll probably need some alterations to make sure the fit is as close to perfect as it can be. So be sure to set some time aside to visit your local tailor before that big event (wedding, interview, etc.).

What do you prefer: ready to wear, made-to-measure or bespoke? Let me know in the comments section below!

Clothing and Style, Popular Filed Under:bespoke, made to measure, Oliver Wicks, Suit Supply, suits 6 comments

Related Posts

Hall Madden hanger
Hall Madden Review: An (Almost) Bespoke Experience
Jacket-shirt-and-tie ft
How to Wear a Green Donegal Tweed Suit
Looking-at-watch ft
How to Wear a Flannel Suit (featuring Oliver Wicks)
what to wear to a funeral
What to Wear to a Funeral (For Men)

About Brock

Founding editor of The Modest Man, Brock is an aspiring minimalist who enjoys working out, spending time with his wife and family, traveling and creating great content. You can follow Brock on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

Join the Club

Never miss a post, plus grab this free guide (instant download). No spam. Ever.

Subscribe Now

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Rollo says

    September 6, 2018 at 12:58 pm

    I went to my local Suit Supply several times to try to find something that fit and came up empty. They are a Netherlands based company so that might explain things. The patterns are probably cut for someone 6’5″. The customer service is awful, so I don’t feel bad about not buying there.

    Reply
  2. Beau says

    September 11, 2018 at 1:48 pm

    Thanks Brock. You wear a small suit. Do you think the brands you’ve found to work for you are good at catering to the smaller guy, or catering to alterations in general? Some of us are vertically challenged but have a nightmare of a time finding a 48 or 50 jacket – then trying to find one that carries pants with a 10 inch drop just makes matters worse.

    Reply
  3. Maxwell says

    October 12, 2018 at 2:55 pm

    What hem size do you recommend for suit pants? I’m 5’6″, slim, early 20’s and wear my clothing close and tailored. I was thinking 7″

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Brock says

      October 12, 2018 at 3:39 pm

      I like 6.25 to 6.5 myself!

      Reply
  4. Alan Voorhees says

    October 28, 2019 at 6:00 am

    I had a suit made a few months ago. I went to my tailor and selected a wool/cashmere fabric and discussed the fit, style and features I wanted. After that I was measured and left a deposit. The first fitting was a basted-together jacket and sewed pants. Made some adjustments for fit. When the completed suit was delivered, everything was perfect.

    So is it bespoke or custom? It ticks off everything in the “bespoke” list except the price. Does using a Bangkok tailor count? (I live in Asia).

    Reply
  5. Martin says

    April 5, 2020 at 6:18 pm

    This is the best article I’ve read on suits and I’m 55 and wore suits for work for about 12 years of my professional life. My first thought is I feel bad for you trying to find a suit to fit at 5’6″ and 120. In suits I am lucky because I’m 6′ and have run from about 155 – 175 across my suit life with a 32 – 33 inch waist 42 inch chest (if I remember correctly). I have always bought ready to wear with good results.

    Your photos do a good job of showing off what you talk about, I can’t see a ton of difference between the bespoke and the ready to wear but as you talk about there are subtle ones. When I was in my 20’s a coworker told me that every man should have at least one custom suit. I sort of agree and sort of not (plus I didn’t have $600 to drop on a suit in the early 90’s). He wore custom but he was at least 20 pounds overweight (probably in his 30’s/early 40’s) and I suspect that weight varied for him too. So his custom suits were nice suits but they couldn’t make him look fit. That was an important lesson at an early age. A fit man in a decent ready to wear suit is likely to look better than a custom suit on an out of shape man. If you have to pick and choose what areas to try and keep fit as far as looks in a suit I would say shoulders/posture and/or abs…we all know abs are harder to do so the quick fix to me is shoulder mass and exercise to correct round shoulders (face pulls are a great, easy base exercise). Also once you get a nice suit it will continue to fit nicely only as long as you maintain relatively the same shape.

    That’s my two cents.
    Thanks

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Primary Sidebar

Join the Club

Never miss a post, plus grab this free guide (instant download).

No spam. Ever.

Subscribe Now

Top 5 Favorites for Fall/Winter 2021

  1. Oliver Cabell Chelsea Boot – 3oz suede upper, Italian crepe sole, made in Spain, under $250
  2. Everlane Performance Chino – looks like a chino, feels like a travel pant (comfy but not too tech-y)
  3. Smartwool Light Crew Hiking Socks – not cheap, but some of the best wool socks to wear with boots (at any price)
  4. Seiko SNK809 – the best automatic watch under $150 you can buy (perfect for someone’s first mechanical watch)
  5. Ash & Erie Henley – finally, a long sleeve henley shirt that fits properly on shorter men (and shorter arms)

Most popular posts

The 10 Best Fall Shoes for Men (2021 Guide)

Seiko 5 SNK805

25 Great Watches For Small Wrists (Updated for 2021)

Business casual style for men

The Complete Guide to Business Casual Style for Men [2021]

ClipperLever ft

A Beginner’s Guide to Cutting Your Own Hair at Home

Famous short men

100 Famous Short Men Everyone Can Look Up To

Topics

  • Clothing & Style
  • Outfit Ideas
  • Fitness
  • Product Reviews
  • Dating & Confidence
  • Grooming
  • Men of Modest Height
  • Income Reports

Footer

The Modest Man logo

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Home • Blog • Resources • Contact • Advertise

 

Privacy Policy & Affiliate Disclosure • Terms & Conditions

 

Copyright © 2021 The Modest Man (Registered Trademark)