This post was made possible by one of my favorite custom suit makers, Oliver Wicks (formerly known as Dragon Inside).
It’s tough to wear a suit in the summertime. Even with a 100% linen suit, it’s pretty easy to overheat.
But come autumn, a suit jacket just feels right. It actually serves it’s purpose of keeping you warm (which is kind of the point of a jacket, after all).
Sure, your “four season” wool suits will do just fine during the fall and winter. But if you want to step things up a notch in terms of warmth, texture and seasonality, you’re going to want to buy a flannel suit.
But what is flannel? Let’s get a one thing straight:
Originally, flannel was made from wool. So, all flannel was wool, but not all wool was flannel.
Now, flannel can be made from different materials like cotton, but there are two types of wool flannel: woolen and worsted.
Woolen flannel is the type you’re probably picturing right now: soft, fuzzy and thick. Like those pajamas you wear when you fake a sick day and binge watch ten episodes of Mad Men.
(What, you’ve never done that? I don’t believe you.)
Worsted flannel, on the other hand, is a bit smoother and not as soft as woolen flannel. It’s still heavier, more textured, softer and warmer than regular suiting wool. But it’s not as rough and rugged as tweed.
A suit made from worsted flannel is perfect for fall, winter and even early spring. It can be dressed up or down, and it’s easy to wear the jacket and trousers separately (especially with a neutral color like brown or grey).
For this post, I’m wearing a light brown flannel suit from a made-to-measure clothier called Oliver Wicks.
Oliver Wicks used to be called Dragon Inside. I actually did a review of one of their suits back in December 2013, which you can find here:
Compared to other companies I’d worked with at the time, that first suit turned out really well. In fact, after having a couple of subpar experiences, Oliver Wicks pretty much renewed my faith in the online made-to-measure process.
And while the company’s brand has changed, their commitment to customer satisfaction has not.
This brown flannel suit is my third Oliver Wicks suit, and there’s been plenty of measurement tweaking along the way.
Compared to my first OW suit, this one has a slightly more relaxed silhouette. It’s still slim, but there’a bit more give in the torso, sleeves and thighs.
Maybe I’m just getting older, but I think it’s important to find a nice middle ground between fitted and comfortable.
Remember: slim fit ≠ proper fit. Never sacrifice comfort for looks!
Even in a full suit, you should be able to move around a bit without feeling too much restriction or pulling.
Let’s talk about the suit. Here are the specs:
- Price: $549
- Half-Canvas Construction (Full Available)
- 100% Super 120s Worsted Flannel
- Woven in Italy (Vitale Barberis Canonico)
The color is a neutral light brown. I’m wearing it here over a white shirt with thin red stripes and a burgundy tie with yellow pheasants on it.
Note: For neckties, I generally prefer a four-in-hand knot (it compliments my narrow face), but I tied a half-Windsor here to use up some extra length.
The pocket square plays a supporting role here. Its pale yellow tones work with the yellow in the tie and the gold metal on my watch and belt.
The socks, on the other hand, are pretty bold. They work well with the tie, and I really like this mustard yellow color.
But a more conservative choice would be medium brown socks (slightly darker than the trousers).
Let’s Check Out a More Casual Look
Let me just get changed real quick…
For an informal look, you can swap your dress shirt and tie for a more casual button up – in this case, a plaid flannel shirt.
It’s a good old fashioned flannel fest.
shirt | sunglasses | shoes (similar)
Photography by Erin McGoff
Whether you dress it up or down, a flannel suit is a great addition to any man’s wardrobe – especially if it gets cold where you live.
Big thanks to Oliver Wicks for sponsoring this post! Check out their online store to browse their latest collection of suits, shirts and more.
Do you own a cold weather suit? Leave a comment below!
T. L. says
Is that a little bit of lining sticking out from the pant legs?
A.B. Miller says
For those of us searching for unbiased reviews for OW – Thanks for letting us get all the way to the end of the “REVIEW”…. before letting us know it was SPONSORED BY OLIVER WICKS.
The sponsorship is disclosed right at the top of the article – first line under the title. Did you miss that? My non-sponsored review for Oliver Wicks was published back in 2013 – https://www.themodestman.com/dragon-inside-custom-suits-review/ (linked to this above in the article too).
I’ve been working with this brand for a long time, way before they became a sponsor (before they were even called Oliver Wicks).
So…not sure what you’re upset about.
A.B. Miller says
First off – thank you for answering. A lot of folks in the industry would have never considered it.
“Made possible by” Is not quite the same as ‘sponsoring’. But I guess it’s all a matter or perception.
The deck on the outside of my house was “made possible by” Lowe’s home improvement .. and not by the local grocery store or funeral home. But Lowe’s didn’t ‘sponsor’ my deck – I did.
Sorry for the confusion.
Is that the regular width notch lapel or slim? Also, would you recommend a flannel suit as a first suit; I am trying to make a decision on what type of navy fabric to get…Thanks
Steven T says
This is still a good post 2 years later.
I like to have a suit I can carry into the weekend for less formal situations. That’s hard to do with navy or charcoal. This one seems to fit the bill. Great suggestion.
I bought a suit from OW a few months ago. While their customer service cannot be faulted, the end result was poor to say the least. The suit almost had to be re-made from sctatch. Thankfully they reimbursed me for most of the alterations. My tailor basically said that whatever pattern they use doesn’t work for me at all (I’m 6″ 2, 37 inch chest). Which is a pity, since I really like their fabrics. Their flannels in particular are wonderful. It’s a pity Suit Supply only offers flannel in their Jort line.
Khoi N. (@lifeaskhoi) says
And the fit is pretty stellar for MTM. I take it your 3rd suit in, this was straight out of the box, no alterations?
Yup, this one didn’t need any alterations.
Khoi N. (@lifeaskhoi) says
I like what you did there with the animated gif. You already know how I feel about the getup. Oliver Wicks is definitely next up on my list of MTM after Black Lapel. You may have persuaded me to get this very same flannel suit. I just love the colour for fall. Is that the dark green, Italian Bemberg lining?
Haha thanks! Yup, you got the lining right. Nice spot.
Larry Bivens says
Brock, that suit looks great on you! Like that you included a dress it down photo, also nice compromise between fit and comfort. Larry
Joe Carter says
In Phoenix, AZ even a light weight wool suit often feels too hot. I’ve found silk works best for sport coats. I’ve never tried a silk suit. My go-to casual suit material is cotton, such as Dockers Separates when I can find my size. I’d love to try a MTM cotton suit.
I hear you on that. Recently visited Phoenix for the first time a few weeks ago… man, I’ve never felt that kind of heat!
Looking real good Brock. I’m appreciating the reviews. Can you see about doing a post about suits and clothes for warmer climates?
Eoghan Greene says
I have to say the suit looks very well especially considering it is brown. Just a quick question on the measurements. As you’ve said it’s your third Oliver wicks MTM suit and many measurements have been tweaked. What advice would you give to help get the measurements as close to perfect as possible(first time round) for Oliver Wicks then to make your suit perfectly fitting or as close to? As I am a regular customer and won’t be sponsored I don’t really have the leeway to get it wrong.
Even as a normal customer, they will work closely with you to remake the jacket or trousers if needed. They also reimburse for minor alterations, which are almost always necessary.
My other OW suits fit well too, but I made some adjustments based on my preferences changing, mostly. For example, I wanted the rise to be a little bit longer so I could wear the pants a little higher up. I wanted the jacket to be let out a bit.
But my advice is to give OW as much info as possible – your actual measurements, measurements of your best fitting suit (with photos of you wearing it), details about your specific build (especially the shape or your shoulders, how you hold your arms, whether you stand straight up, etc.).
And don’t settle for ill fit. Even great customer service can’t change the fact that online MTM is very difficult to get right. The way a suit fits is a complicated – it’s more than just a collection of measurements. So be patient, don’t settle, and over communicate.