This in-depth guide to outerwear for shorter men will help you stay warm without sacrificing style. Read on to learn more.
You need to stay warm, and you want to look good. But how? Winter coats aren’t exactly tailor made for short men.
Most cold weather coats are too long, too bulky, or both – which makes you look smaller and shorter than you actually are!
You know that fit is the most important aspect of style, so does that mean short men are out of luck when it comes to outerwear?
Fortunately, there are some very basic guidelines you can follow to make sure your cold weather style is on point.
It’s mostly about what NOT to do. Just remember these two rules:
- Avoid bulky outerwear (like George’s Gortex jacket).
- Don’t wear coats that go past your knees.
If you follow these two rules, you’ll be good to go. Everything else is just icing on the cake.
Now let’s look a little closer at the finer points of wearing outerwear as a shorter guy.
Wearing Outerwear as a Shorter Guy
First off, remember this: style is subjective. Other than not being naked, we all get dressed for different reasons.
✔️ Some of us want to “dress taller” so we can feel confident when we finally ask our crush out on a date.
✔️ Some of us want to look professional so our boss starts taking us seriously.
✔️ Some of us just want to stay warm and comfortable without looking sloppy, and there’s nothing wrong with that!
My point is, don’t think of the tips below as hard and fast rules. Just think of them as principles that can be followed, bent or even broken to fit your needs and preferences.
Okay, now that we’ve got that disclaimer out of the way, let’s talk about outerwear!
Tip #1: Avoid Bulky Outerwear
You don’t want to look like the Michelin Man. This look doesn’t flatter any body type, but it’s especially bad for shorter men.
Any bulkiness will be over emphasized by your small stature.
Most winter jackets contain some sort of insulation, which adds bulk and weight to the garment. That’s okay. After all, warmth is more important than style.
But you should do your best to avoid excess bulk. For example, consider puffer jackets – those quilted jackets stuffed with goose down. Sure, they’re warm, but they add way too much unnecessary bulk and padding to your body.
If you are going to wear a puffer jacket, make sure it’s slimmed down and small in scale (i.e. small puffs).
One of my favorite puffer jackets is from Everlane. It’s nice and thin. Plus, it’s reversible and has a handy double zipper.
I did get the sleeves shortened by about two inches (which is a very doable alteration).
Bottom line: remember to stay away from overly thick and bulky outerwear.
Tip #2: Don’t Wear Full Length Coats
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but most short men just don’t look good in coats that go past their knees.
Sucks, I know, but it’s the truth. Any coat that goes past your knees will be very hard to pull off. It will need to fit perfectly, like this:
This jacket fits wonderfully, which is probably the result of painstaking (i.e. expensive) alterations.
Not to mention, James Dean can pull off anything, and this was a different time period, as evidenced by the cuffed, full cut trousers.
I’m not James Dean, this isn’t the 50s, and I’m still (relatively) young, so I prefer shorter coats. Mid-thigh is a great length for shorter guys.
We’ll talk more about this type of coat later, so keep reading…
Tip #3: Watch Your Sleeve Length
By far, the most common outerwear fit problem for short guys is sleeve length. Simply put, most sleeves are just too long.
When your sleeves are too long, it creates a “kid playing dress up” effect, as if you stole a coat from your dad’s closet.
It’s not a great look, even if you yourself are a dad!
If your coat fits perfectly, your sleeves will end at your actual wrist (not down around your palms).
If they go past your first thumb joint, they’re definitely too long.
How can you fix this? Glad you asked…
Tip #4: Get It Tailored
Here’s the thing – you might find a coat that that fits well almost everywhere, but the sleeves are a bit too long.
For some jackets, like a wool topcoat without functioning sleeve buttons, this is a straightforward and relatively inexpensive alteration.
However, tailoring a waterproof jacket is much more complicated, as any mistakes can compromise the waterproofing and insulation.
But it can be done. The key is to find a tailor who knows what they’re doing. If you buy a new jacket, ask whoever you bought it from (either the store or the manufacturer) if they can handle alterations in-house.
If they say no, ask them to recommend a tailor. You may have to send the jacket to a specialty shop. I’ve heard good things about both of these places:
These specialty tailors will take longer and be more expensive than your local tailor, but it’s worth it to get that perfect fit.
Tip #5: Layer Up for Warmth
Instead of wearing one super-warm coat (those tend to be bulky), you can just layer up with multiple lightweight layers.
By wearing layers, you can be stylish and warm (the ultimate cold weather combo). Plus, you can always add or remove a layer when the temperature changes.
I really love wearing a quilted vest under a medium-heavy weight jacket. This combo is perfect for those days when it’s cold in the morning, warmer during the day, then freezing again at night.
Tip #6: Scale Down the Details
Finding a jacket that flatters the shorter build isn’t just about fit. It’s also about scale.
You want to find jackets that have smaller details. This is especially important for parkas, down jackets and peacoats.
Let’s look at the puffer jacket as an example…
Pretty much every puffer jacket – which is just an insulated jacket with a quilted exterior – has some sort of visual pattern on the outside.
It could be diamonds or horizontal lines or even squares.
Regardless of which pattern the jacket has, a smaller scale will work better for smaller guys.
Thin stripes, not thick ones. Small diamonds, not big ones.
For peacoats, pay attention to details like pockets and lapels. If you’re a short, thin man, super wide lapels are going to loop oversized against your frame.
For parkas, try to avoid huge patch pockets and oversized fur trimmed hoods.
Slant pockets and shearling lined hoods work much better, in my opinion.
Bottom line: pay attention to the scale as well as the fit.
The Best Outerwear for Short Men
We’ve talked a lot about what not to wear, and you might be wondering, What kind of outerwear should I wear??
Great question! Let’s talk about the best outerwear for shorter guys.
#1: Topcoat
If you don’t have a go-to coat for more dressy scenarios, you should consider a topcoat in camel, navy or charcoal.
These coats are typically made from thick wool, and they’re usually fully lined, which makes them warm and toasty. They should end about halfway down your thighs, a perfect length for shorter men.
Lots of people will tell you that short guys shouldn’t wear long coats, but believe me: a mid-thigh coat can actually elongate your figure in a way that shorter coats cannot.
Also, don’t feel the need to reserve your topcoat for formal situations. You can wear them casually too.
A good topcoat isn’t cheap, but it’s one of those wardrobe staples that’s worth investing in.
#2: Slim Fit Parka
While many parkas are oversized and way too big/long for shorter gents, some fit very nicely.
Even if you’re not super slim, I recommend checking out a “slim fit” parka for a trimmed down, closer fitting version of this essential outerwear style.
Here are three that are worth checking out:
-
- Alpha Industries Slim Fit N-3B Parka (Amazon affiliate link) (amazing price)
- Patagonia Tres 3-in-1 Parka (the youth XL fits me perfectly)
- Canada Goose Fusion Fit (scaled down parkas made for the Asian market)
There are other options out there, but these are all solid choices.
#3: Lightweight Down Jackets
Lightweight down jackets can keep you warm through much of winter, especially if you wear a base layer. Since they’re, well, lightweight, they’re a great alternative to bulky parkas.
The key is to find ones that have small scale patterns, proper sleeve length and not too much fill. I think Everlane and Uniqlo both do a great job with their puffer jackets.
Try wearing a base layer first, like a long sleeve t-shirt, then a warm middle layer (flannel shirt or wool sweater).
If you wear your lightweight down jacket over these layers, you’ll be warm and toasty even at freezing cold temperatures.
#4: Leather Jacket
You see a lot of men’s fashion articles that say every man needs a leather jacket in his outerwear collection.
I don’t think this is true. They’re not for everyone.
But if you love the look of a leather jacket, it can be an extremely versatile piece, especially during fall and early/late winter.
Leather jackets aren’t as formal as topcoats, and they don’t provide as much insulation as down jackets or parkas, so they won’t take you all the way through a real winter – even with layering.
But if you find yourself mostly sticking to a casual or smart casual dress code, leather jackets are a great choice.
I recommend going with something very fitted, as it will loosen up over time. Again, pay attention to sleeve length. If they’re too long, go the tailor!
#5: Peacoat
Another classic men’s coat is the pea coat. It’s less formal than the topcoat, but it still works for a “dressed up” look.
If you think a topcoat is too long for you, a peacoat will likely be the perfect length.
I’d highly recommend going with charcoal or navy instead of black.
Where To Buy Outerwear for Shorter Guys
If you’re willing to get your coats and jackets altered, you can buy them anywhere and bring them to the tailor to get that perfect fit.
If you want to avoid paying extra for tailoring, try these clothing brands for shorter guys:
- Ash & Erie – parka, bomber, overshirts / Ash & Review review
- Under 510 – just overshirts in stock at time of writing / Under 510 review
- ASKET – car coat, wool coat, denim jacket, vest (and more)/ ASKET review
- Jimmy Au’s – wide range of outerwear for shorter guys; no online shop / Jimmy Au’s review
- Peter Manning NYC – leather jacket, field jacket, harrington, topcoat, down jacket (and more) / Peter Manning review
While the options from each of those individual brands are limited, you should be able to find something you like among all of them.
FAQs About Outerwear for Short Men
Here are answers to some commonly asked questions about outerwear for shorter guys:
Can shorter guys wear denim jackets?
Yes, shorter men can wear denim jackets. Just makes sure the sleeves aren’t too long!
Do coats look good on short guys?
As long as they fit properly, most types of coats look good on short guys.
What jackets look good on short guys?
Almost any jacket looks good on short guys if it fits well. Avoid coats that go past your knees and super puffy jackets.
Try wearing thigh-length overcoats, thin leather jackets and field jackets, and non-bulky down jackets.
Closing Thoughts
Shorter gents should avoid baggy, bulky outerwear. Instead, opt for thinner, fitted coats, and use multiple lightweight layers to stay warm.
Unless you really love the look, don’t wear full-length coats that go past your knees. Stick to mid-thigh or shorter.
Above all, wear the coats and jackets that keep you warm and comfortable and make you feel like a million bucks!
What’s your current favorite piece of outerwear? Leave a comment below!
Matt says
I wear ladies longline coats and trench coats to work and around town. I am not a cross dresser but they look great!
George says
I follow all the rules except the overcoat or topcoat rule. My wool overcoat comes just below my knees and is tailored to just fit over a suit or sport coat.
I like leather jackets but can never find one that doesn’t need altering in the sleeves (too long) or torso (again too long) so I no longer have one. The one I had was a one of those bombers with the map lining that hit me at the waist but I had it so long and wore it so much it finally wore out.
What I have in its place now is a Tommy Hilfiger red semi-puffer, yes red, waist length Parka with a removal faux fur hood. It is extremely warm and made for deep winter weather.
COLIN JOHN MITCHELL says
Over here in Britain,the likes of Barbour and Belstaff do a range of cracking winter coats that suit short guys.
Ralph Lauren and Japanese brands like Beams Plus are also good for non bulky items which tend to fit ok.
As always sleeve length can be an issue and you also have to take account of the cold,damp,wet winters-especially here in Scotland.
So there says
The only time you should be wearing a puffer jacket is if you are literally on a ski slope. Those things are ugly as sin. I don’t get it when there are so many other options.
Brock says
To each his own, but strong disagree here. Puffers are terrible for wet weather (most aren’t water resistant), and many thin ones look great (like the Everlane one I wear). I think they’re one of the most practical and stylish midweight jackets a guy can own.
Kim says
Hi Brock, I really like the coat you have from Banana Republic. I am trying to get a coat (above the knee) for my fiance’s birthday – he is 5’8 around 130 pounds (small frame). Was wondering if you can give a link to that coat or something similar? Thanks!
Chuck F says
That pic of the dude with the the tan topcoat OVER a hooded sweatshirt and baseball cap (and what appears to be sweatpants below) is one of the dumbest ensembles I’ve seen (as bad as wearing no socks with dress shoes). Sorry, Brock, but that look is laughable.
Stuart Ritterman says
I’m 5’5’’ (and 200 lbs) and live in Winnipeg Canada. I don’t mind being short and preform warmth to fashion. Can’t understand your injunction re: below the knee dusters. I’m looking for a mid-calf down filled duster. It gets down below -40 here and can’t find a Canada Goose model. Suggestions?
Maxwell says
Do I really have to go with coats that end above the knee as a 5’6″? I have a wool coat that fits me very well and slim throughout the chest, waist, legs and ends a decent amount below my knee which I think is flattering. My climate is cold, windy and oftentimes wet. If the proportion fit are good I don’t see why short men should have to put up with having wet and cold legs.
Ari says
Hey Brock, which is your most clicked size when it comes to ordering clothes or sweaters online?
I’m 5″7 or below + 120 lbs and was thinking of a size 36 coat.
Brock says
A 34S or XS would probably fit you better.
Mai Anh Nam says
Hi. I am 5’7′′. Is it ok for a top coat which ends right at the beginning of knee?
David Pugh says
I am 5 2 and have more weight in the gut than I need or want. I need help with shirts and outerwear. Please give me some suggestions. This is a real problem for many men. I love your website.
Shaun says
Hi Brock, I’m 5’3″ and am wondering if it is viable to wear women’s parkas or jackets of sorts, considering its very difficult to find a good fitting jacket for guys of my height? Thank you!
bb says
Hi Brock. Do you prefer a 100% wool coat or an 80/20 wool/synthetic blend? Whats the difference?
Brock says
I’d go with whichever fits better. Given the choice, pure wool is usually a sign of higher quality. But there lots of really nice blends out there these day, so fit should be your priority.
Darren says
Where does a car coat fit in? The topcoat looks too long for what I prefer to wear. Something like this? https://www.schottnyc.com/products/mens-car-coat.htm?catID=9
Sushil Sekhar says
Nice read Brock! What would you recommend for a guy who is 5’3, 170lbs with a beer belly. Hiding my belly and choosing outwear while keeping my height in mind is quite difficult.
Khürt L. Williams says
“The key is to find a tailor who knows what they’re doing.”
And … how do you do that? If you’ve never used a tailor before then you are pretty much going blind. None of my friends tailor clothes. Is there a review site for tailors?
Brock says
Got you covered, Khurt:
https://www.themodestman.com/how-to-find-a-tailor/
pautratrem says
Do penfield jackets fits you in XS without having to get the sleeves shortened ?
JM says
I need your help! Since I’m an Asian guy living abroad, I cannot be sure about the sizing of J.crew Top coats. I am 5′ 6″ (about 167cm maybe..?) & quite slim, and satisfied with the overall length of XS sizes shirts in both Jcrew and Club Monaco. You’ve recommended the Jcrew Top Coats, but still I think it will be a bit long on my body. Probably size 34/s is what I should go with, but my all time problem is the length. Could you please help me out? Thanks in advance!
Carlos says
I’ve never been very into fashion but this makes me see the value of being intentional about style and what you wear. I’m starting to see how important it is and what a difference it makes!
Ed says
I looked at most of the outerwear choices you made and my problem has always been sleeve length. I am 5’4″ & 168 lbs. my suit size is 42 short so to get a jacket to fit at the shoulder, my hand are submerged in the sleeve with most outwear. Any ideas for a guy my size?
Brock says
I think getting the sleeves shortened is your best bet. I have to do this for almost every jacket I own… not convenient, but it’s worth the extra effort.
Peter Roy says
Great article. I just got a pea coat for Christmas – I confess I didn’t know that’s what it was called before I read this article – and I was relieved to read that this was a good choice. I think my wife has a pretty good eye so she tends to steer me in a sensible direction. And she is 3 inches taller than me, so I need to look as tall as I can 🙂
Interesting recommendation about the parka coat – I am going to try a few on today to see how they look!
rollo says
I was always told that double breasted was off limits for shorter guys. Probably because of the lateral direction it moves the eye (supposedly). It may also add unwanted bulk.
Brock says
DB is okay for outerwear! It does get tricky when it comes to suits/jackets, but I wouldn’t shy away from it, especially since it would rule out most pea coats.
Cyrus says
That’s why I moved to Florida. End of my problem. Lol
Brock says
That actually sounds a like a much better solution. I may join you down there…
thekentuckygent says
Couldn’t agree more on these tips, same hold true to tall thin guys too on some accounts, especially if you’re all leg.
Brock says
It’s funny how taller guys have the same problems, just on the other end of the spectrum. Glad to have you here, by the way. Love your blog!
-B
thekentuckygent says
Right? Puffy jackets make me look like i’m walking on stilts (more than I already do). Glad to be here! Keep up the good work.