This is the second installment of a two part Enzo Custom suit review, written by TMM contributor Tony Gorga.
As a quick recap, Enzo offered to make me a suit after a fitting in their Washington, DC location.
I offered to write about it two parts. The first was a thorough review of their process; this second is a review of their product.
I opted for a 6×2 double breasted suit in a medium grey colorway. We chose a Glen Plaid with a light blue overcheck (a “Prince of Wales” pattern).
The turnaround is about three weeks from submission to delivery. That seems to be on the quicker side for made-to-measure. I got an automated email and was able to schedule my second fitting with Jared for the next week.
The Second Fitting at Enzo Custom
The second fitting is where the clothier assesses the finished garment and then allows the in-house alterations tailor to make any necessary adjustments.
Based on how thoroughly Jared and I went over the shoulder construction (softer, lighter padding and the extended sleevehead), I hope for it will sit well.
Also, having done MTM before, I anticipate having to slim the sleeves and nip the waist. That's usually done to give the clothier a little wiggle room – you can take cloth out, but you can't put more in!
The shoulder does sit beautifully, with minimal divoting or denting. As expected, the sleeves are a bit full, and the lower waist could be suppressed. So, we take the arms in 0.75″ and bring the waist in 0.5″.
At the time, the trousers look good. More on that later, though. Jared puts the order in, and it's done a few days later.
Enzo Custom Suit Review
The Super 150s cloth is, as expected, fantastic. Perhaps it's the extra material from the double-breasted jacket, but the suit feels substantial. There are no loose threads, snags, or stains.
It's slick to the touch and glides across the fingers. It almost feels like there's a ‘stretch' woven in.
The pattern is more subtle than expected. I'm actually okay with that, as a small scale allows the suit to look solid from afar but the details to reveal themselves upon closer inspection.
The wide peak lapels sit in a classic position in the middle of my chest. A more fashion-forward version of myself would be tempted to venture even wider; but I think the more mature, sensible version of me will be thankful for the more timeless width.
However, I was expecting a more pronounced curve on the lapel belly (that's the part between the button and the notch). I think that would give them a little more character. I surmise that sharpness is the Enzo Custom suit style, though.
The customized, higher gorge height does offer a few modern touches. I think it has an elongating effect on my silhouette and makes me appear taller than I really am.
I'm also very much a fan of the single pleat we added. It's subtle, and I think it will look just as stylish 10 years from now.
Now, let's consider the fit.
This Enzo Custom suit got the key fit elements right.
- Shoulder: The shoulders sit perfectly in a way I just haven't found from off-the-rack companies.
- Rear Length: At 5'7.25″, most Regular jackets are too long for me. But, many of today's cropped Short jackets are actually too short to cover my rear like I want them too. I'm squarely in between. Jared and I were able to dial in a length unique to me. I think this is just about perfect.
- Pant Length: The trousers are just kissing the top of my Oxfords, which is exactly what I want. A slight break isn't too fashion-forward, but definitely maximizes my height. I'm also wearing these higher on the waist-so the break is a little more aggressive.
- Higher waist: These details are things off-the-rack suiting just can't do. Most of today's suit trousers from have a very low rise. Unless your jacket has a lower buttoning position, what results is a sort of ‘inverted triangle' of exposed shirt and the blade of your tie. This disrupts the silhouette of the suit and, in my view, is actually disadvantageous to us shorter dudes. We want clean lines! So, a higher rise does wonders.
Room for Improvement
While Enzo did very well on my hot-button issues of shoulder and length, the suit does have a few areas for improvement.
- Arms: The above photos were taken shortly after the first round of alterations were completed. The arms were comfortable, but I felt the fuller cut made the jacket appear boxier than it actually is- and you can sense that in these shots. Upon seeing these pictures, I actually went back to Enzo and had them slimmed another half inch. In the process, however, the sleeve lining appears to have wrinkled or creased. This has caused some highly unusual rippling on the sleeves. We're going to give it five or six wears to see if it sorts itself out, but further work may be required to get it right.
- Armhole: High armholes are great for a number reasons. They give the wearer better mobility and emphasize a V-shape on the torso. It's also a subtle sign of a custom garment. Lower armholes are made to fit a wide range of men; higher ones are more unique to you. My typical armhole is actually quite high- 20″. While Enzo can give you a custom armhole height, you do have to specify that. I'd actually missed such a measurement was never taken-so I take responsibility here. The standard armhole at Enzo is 21 inches. While it's lower than I prefer (and yes, believe it or not, an inch actually does make a difference), it's far from a dealbreaker.
- Trousers(?): This is a tough one. I mentioned earlier in this piece about the cloth feeling like it has some stretch or ‘cling' to it, even though it's listed as 100% wool. Here's where that comes in. At the rear view, the cloth appears to be pulling around my thighs and knees. That's usually an indicator the trousers are too tight. However:
- Neither Jared nor I caught this in my second fitting.
- From the front view and the details shot, there's no apparent tugging or pulling on the thigh.
- I can still grab a good handful of cloth and pull it a few inches away from my legs.
While the camera doesn't lie, I think the issue here is with more with my posture in the photo than the trousers.
In these pictures, I'm actually bending my knees and leaning forward. I actually stood in front of a mirror before writing this just to double check!
The cloth on the Enzo Custom suit is heads and shoulders above my off-the-rack suits, and probably the best in my closet right now.
The hardware is substantial, and the construction exactly what you'd expect from an investment suit like this. Speaking of hardware, it should also be noted the hanger this thing comes on is solid wood. That's incredible.
Also, the garment bag is probably the best I've encountered. It has enough room for two suits, but rolls up to roughly the size of a large briefcase and even has pockets for each of your shoes. If I'm traveling with a suit, I'm taking this bag.
Stylistically, I'm pleased with the pleating and the side tabs. I'd prefer a little more body to the lapel belly, but that's pretty trivial on the whole.
Regarding jacket fit, the shoulder seam and length of the jacket, two of my major areas of concern in off-the-rack suiting, are borderline perfect.
However, I would have liked to be able to slim through the hip a touch more to emphasize the V-taper. But, that's fairly minor at worst and unnoticed by 99% of people.
Additionally, the issue with the arm lining may resolve itself, or it may require repair at a later date.
The trouser fit remains to be seen. I was measured (correctly) at a 23in thigh, so any issues would be more on the cutting side than the measurement side.
I've felt a little tightness when sitting, but the pants aren't capillary-crushing slim. And again, the lines appear very clean when I'm actually standing straight up. Perhaps that's for the best.
To wrap things up, it's important to keep things in perspective. Made-to-Measure and “custom” are significantly different than actual full bespoke.
Suffice it to say, though, that you'll likely need alterations on the full garment once it comes in. They may be minor, like mine were. Or it may go horribly wrong, like what happened to Brock.
Is a $1,000 custom suit better than a $1,000 off-the-rack suit? In most cases, yes. Will it be perfect? Nope. Should you be okay with that? Absolutely.
Why? First, it takes time for you and the clothier to get to know your body and really dial in that fit. Second, and more importantly, we're not statues with chiseled jaws and abs fiercely squinting into the camera lens.
Wrinkles, ripples, and tugging happen when you, you know, move. That's important to remember as you continue on your sartorial journey, and something I remind myself from time to time.
Thanks for reading, and do check out Enzo Custom if you find yourself nearby.
Style Breakdown (adapted from Permanent Style)
Price (with half-canvas lining): $1,065.00
- Shoulder padding: Very thin
- Armhole: 21 in (standard)
- Shoulder- 17.5 (including 0.25inch allowance for additional roll)
- Sleeve: Medium-full.
- Lapel: 4.35
- Lapel Belly- Flat, straight
- Drape: Moderate
- Buttoning point: 16 from the neck
- Waist suppression: Moderate
- Back Length (from bottom of the collar): 27.75
- Back seam: Straight
- Vent height: 9
- Trouser Rise: 10.75
- Trouser circumference at knee: 18
- Circumference at cuff: 14.5
My Measurements (as of March 2019)
- Height: 5'7.25″
- Neck: 14.5
- Chest: 39.5
- Seat: 38.5
- Waist: 31.5
- Bicep: 14.25
- Shoulders: 17.5
- Outseam: 39
- Thigh: 23
- Bottom Hem: 14.5