Here’s everything you need to know about the renaissance of blue-collar style.
Don’t let the name deceive you — workwear has nothing to do with the office. Rather, workwear style is rooted in trades such as construction and mining that require durable, rugged clothing to stand up to the demands of intense manual labor.
Today, workwear is becoming increasingly popular and for good reason. It’s a style that prioritizes practicality and comfort — and it doesn’t hurt that the aesthetic is pretty darn cool.
If you’re interested in workwear but don’t know where to start, this article is for you. Just to be clear, I’m not going to get into what to wear if you’re a construction worker or lineman.
This guide is geared towards explaining workwear as clothing to be worn casually, not necessarily as a blue-collar worker (though many articles of clothing I’ll cover fit well in the working man’s wardrobe).
Here’s what you need to know about the history of workwear and the style’s most essential elements.
The History of Workwear
The kind of workwear style seen today is most heavily influenced by clothing worn by sailors and laborers from the 1800s and early to mid 1900s.
The earliest influences come from nautical garb. In the 1800s, sailors wore smock-style tops and loose-fitting trousers, and fishermen donned early versions of oilskins to keep dry.
A workwear milestone came in 1873 when Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss started producing the first modern jeans. This not only established denim as a major workwear material but also affected how manufacturers designed work pants.
By the early 1900s, workwear, as we know it today, was properly picking up steam across the world as manual labor was becoming more and more industrial.
Chore jackets and work trousers became ubiquitous in Europe (especially in France), and garments like the work shirt and overshirt were being produced in the U.S.
During this period, many now-famous American workwear brands like Carhartt, Dickies, Levi’s, and Wrangler (then known as Hudson Overall Company) were established. And in Europe, brands like Le Mont Saint Michel, Le Laboureur, and M.C.Overalls were emerging.
For about a century, workwear stayed within the realm of hard labor. It wasn’t until the 1990s that workwear became a noteworthy recreational style — young artists and skateboarders donned work clothes because they were cheap and durable. The tides of fashion soon turned, and while workwear resurfaced in the late 2000s, it didn’t last long.
Workwear as Casual Style
Today, it seems like workwear is here to stay. There are many reasons for this, but the biggest factors seem to be nostalgia and practicality.
Workwear provides a romantic notion of blue-collar labor and represents hard work, but it also offers a lot of function for the modern wearer. As it turns out, you don’t need to work on the railroad to take advantage of the oversized pockets and roomy yokes that are so common among workwear garments.
But workwear’s merits don’t stop there. Since work garments focus on function, their designs are often minimal and straightforward, which allows wearers to dress simply but not plainly. Put simply, workwear is casual but doesn’t look careless or messy.
Essential Workwear Pieces
Here are some core items that I’d expect to see in a workwear-oriented closet:
Chore Jacket/Coat
The chore jacket (also called a worker jacket) is the quintessential workwear garment. The boxy fit, large patch pockets, and large point collar make for a piece of outerwear that’s as durable as it is handsome.
Some chore jackets are essentially rugged blazers, while others are heftier and more outdoorsy-looking. One of the most popular types is the French chore jacket, which has a perfectly slouchy fit that looks good on anyone.
Many chore coats are made from hardy cotton drill or twill, but fabrics like denim and wool are also popular choices. Generally speaking, the bulkier a chore jacket is, the less versatile it is, so it’s best to go with thinner (but still boxy) jackets.
Work Shirt
The chore jacket may be the most iconic workwear item, but the work shirt is just as essential to the style. However, it’s a piece that often gets overlooked when talking about workwear as fashion.
Since you can wear many types of shirts as workwear, there’s no universal definition for what constitutes a work shirt. However, there are some common elements: relaxed fits, buttoned flap pockets, and point (or sometimes band) collars are all typical of most work shirts.
It’s important to note that you probably don’t want an actual work shirt designed for manual labor. These shirts are often made completely or mostly with synthetic fabrics. They also typically have reinforced areas or moisture-wicking technology that you don’t need if you’re not actually doing work.
Instead, opt for workwear-inspired shirts that borrow the designs and silhouettes. These shirts can be made of anything from cotton to linen, and they usually look a fair bit sleeker and more minimal than real performance work shirts.
Overshirt/Shirt Jacket
With workwear style, there are all kinds of layering options, but perhaps the most versatile one is the overshirt. This is essentially a heavier button down shirt that can serve as a mid or outer layer (though you can also wear it on its own).
The terms overshirt and shirt jacket are often used interchangeably, though some argue that shirt jackets are closer to the jacket end of the spectrum. Whatever the term, the overshirt is ideal “middlewear” (i.e., not quite outerwear) that’s especially nice for seasonal transitions.
Carpenter Pants/Painter Pants
Throughout the history of workwear, there’s been a wide variety of work pants. There’s obviously the timeless blue jean, but denim aside, the most recognizable work trousers are carpenter or painter pants, two styles that are closely related.
Straight fits, several spacious pockets, hammer (or paintbrush) loops, larger leg openings, and reinforced stitching characterize this type of pants. Traditional carpenter pants are also often double-kneed, meaning the knee section is fortified with an additional layer of fabric.
Many fashion-forward versions of carpenter and painter pants omit the more tactical specs and focus on the relaxed fit and oversized pockets. Most are made with some form of cotton (usually a drill, twill, or canvas).
Overalls/Dungarees
Bib overalls (also called dungarees) have long been synonymous with workwear, so they merit a place in this article for that status alone.
However, while overalls are extremely functional, they’re more polarizing as a stylistic choice. That said, you can still pull them off with the right outfit and some confidence.
For most guys, dark denim or solid-color dungarees will be safer bets.
Vest/Gilet
Like the overshirt, the vest is a must-have layering piece for workwear. Depending on the style, a vest can look like a waistcoat or a puffer jacket sans arms, though most lean more toward the latter.
Since they tend to be more lightweight, vests are particularly versatile. You can wear one over a T-shirt without overheating, but you can also layer one with a work shirt and chore jacket when it’s miserably cold out.
Cargo Pants
While originally designed for military usage, cargo pants merged into workwear style at some point. It’s easy to see why — the additional pockets offer a lot of practical storage space.
Workwear versions of cargo pants more or less resemble carpenter pants with more pockets. The typical cargo pant hallmark is a pair of accordion or flap pockets on the outer thighs.
Smock
Though originally worn by fishermen, the smock has carved out its own corner in the world of workwear. A smock is a hooded garment that typically features two patch pockets and some form of a wide, open collar.
You can still find smocks that stay true to the garment’s nautical roots, but there are just as many options influenced by modern workwear sensibilities.
Workwear Outfit Ideas
Need some help putting the pieces together? We’ve got you covered. Here are a few workwear ideas to inspire you.
Working Layers
It feels like a crime to put together a workwear outfit that doesn’t involve at least three layers. This fit features a denim popover work shirt underneath a Barbour jacket.
Loose fit camp pants and Clarks Desert Treks round out the look.
Everyday Gilet
This outfit draws inspiration from classic workwear and contemporary menswear for a hybrid look that provides the best of both worlds.
The gilet is layered over an OCBD for a mix between blue- and white-collar vibes, and the socks with sandals combo add to the laid-back, carefree feel.
Modern Workwear
Featuring a smock layered under a hardy waxed jacket, this fit is casual workwear at its best. The
This kind of layering is especially great for inclement weather.
Vintage French
This look evokes the glory days of French workwear.
The patched chore jacket and work pants are eye-catching, and the Breton shirt and rolled watch cap add a touch of nautical inspiration.
Workwear: Be Ready for Any Obstacle
In many ways, workwear is the opposite of what most people think of when they think of fashion. After all, workwear is simple, minimal, and practical.
At the same time, that basic ruggedness is appealing, so it’s not hard to see why the style has been catching on in the menswear world.
Even if you’re not going to hang up your OCBDs and chinos for a work shirt and cargo pants, you owe it to yourself to explore the style. Who knows how you might be able to incorporate workwear into your wardrobe.
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