Oxford vs Derby: The Difference Between These Classic Shoes

Not sure what the difference between a derby vs Oxford shoe is? The differences are subtle but important, so let’s get into it.

These days, most lace-up dress shoes are either an oxford or a derby. Even many brogues and wingtips still use either an oxford or a derby as the base design. 

Without even thinking about it, you may have chosen a derby shoe over a similar-looking Oxford because you preferred its topographical appearance.

Maybe you thought broguing was too loud of a design for you until you saw it on a whole-cut oxford. Basically, the differences between derby shoes and oxfords are subtle but completely consequential to the overall look of the shoe.

Today, we’re going to get into the details so that you’ll be able to tell an Oxford vs derby shoe upon sight — and why you might prefer one over the other.

Oxford vs. Derby Shoes: What’s the Difference?

The big distinction between a derby and Oxford design is all in the lacing. A derby shoe has an open lacing system, while an Oxford has a closed lacing system.

What does this mean exactly?

Well, a derby’s open lacing means that the shoe eyelet tabs are placed over the vamp. By the way, the shoe eyelet tabs are pieces of leather featuring holes that you’ll string your laces in and out of. 

The fact they’re sewn on top of it creates another layer on the surface. This makes the silhouette less smooth and arguably more casual.

An Oxford has closed lacing. This means that the eyelet tabs are attached under the vamp, creating a more streamlined shape. The seams right beneath the Oxford’s lacing are essentially embedded into the surface. Unlike a derby, there’s no “upper tier,” so to speak.

Now, let’s get into what that means for each in a style context. It has to do both with each shoe’s look and history.

What Is an Oxford Shoe: The Details

The closed lacing system and thinner silhouette of an Oxford make it more formal than a derby — all things considered. See, many oxfords also have additional details, like cap-toes or broguing. This makes the designs quite variable.

Another reason they’re associated with dressier aesthetics is the fact they were popularized by Oxford University students in the 1800s. In fact, they were a popular counterpart to the more traditional dress boots in a lot of the elite universities and boarding schools. 

Fast-forward to the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, when they became a go-to shoe for suit-and-tie professionals. Arguably, they still are, though the loafer is giving them a run for their money.

So basically, the cultural associations of the Oxford shoe include elite students, educated professionals, professors, and suit guys in general.

In addition to its closed lacing, the Oxford also has other common defining characteristics. It often has a stitched leather outsole and heel. The tongue is attached separately below the vamp, sitting under the tucked-in eyelet stays. And while there are Oxford boots, a traditional shoe exposes your ankle.

When Should I Wear an Oxford Shoe

Here’s the style advice I give men who are new to an office environment: When in doubt, go for an Oxford shoe. It’s the quintessential professional look.

Again, details make both Oxfords and derbies highly variable, but you’ll pretty much always pick a black Oxford over a derby when wearing a tuxedo.

Wholecut Oxfords are the most formal. Remember, the fewer details there are on a garment, the dressier it is. 

And yes, you can wear Oxford shoes casually, especially when they feature some broguing. They look best with clean lines and can level up a t-shirt and jeans combo. And in relaxed situations, you can go for highly-detailed designs too. I’d just avoid wearing them with athleisure. 

What Is a Derby Shoe: The Details

While Oxfords are for university campuses and office environments, the DNA of the open-laced derby shoe is that of a workhorse.

Their origin story changes depending on who you ask, but every version gives them utilitarian roots, at least as far as dress shoes go.

Some say they came about during the Napoleonic wars. Field Marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher wanted his troops in shoes that were more comfortable than army boots, but also classier.

So, shoemakers took an Oxford and just sewed the lacing system on top of the upper, allowing more room inside the shoe.

This is why derbies are also referred to as bluchers.

Others say that they came about in the 19th century as hunting shoes for gentlemen in the countryside.

The third possible origin includes the 14th Earl of Derby. He had the shoe designed to accommodate his high insteps and wide feet. 

Derby shoes often have a more rounded toe, which also contributes to the extra room and more casual appearance. The vamp and the tongue are one piece, seamless, while the eyelet tabs sit on top. They almost look like a little vest.

When Should I Wear a Derby

If you have wider feet or want a shoe that’s generally easier to take on and off, go for a derby.

You can wear derby shoes with a suit, as long as they’re simple enough. Avoid brogues, cap-toes, and other details. Of course, this also depends on your office culture (and personal style).

Detailed derbies look natural with casual outfits, like jeans and chinos. 

Brawnier, clunky-soled derbies are an effective dress shoe option for those of you who love workwear and combat boots. They’d look excellent with work pants or a utility jacket.

FAQs

Still have some questions about derby shoes vs oxfords? No problem. I’ve got answers:

Should You Wear Oxford or Derby Shoes With a Tuxedo?

In general, you’ll go for a more formal Oxford shoe. However, if you’re only choice was between a simple, black, shiny leather derby versus a brown, brogued, wing-tip oxford, you’ll want go for the former. You want a simple, elegant shoe.

Is a Derby or Oxford More Comfortable? 

Both are pretty comfortable, but the derbies are wider. This allows more room and breathability and is better for guys with broad feet.

Can You Wear Oxfords With Jeans?

Yes, you can wear oxfords with jeans. You can wear them casually as long as the outfit sports clean lines, similar to the shoe itself.

Conclusion: Which Should You Choose — Oxford vs Derby Shoes

All things held equal; the Oxford is definitely the dressier, more elegant shoe. Meanwhile, the derby still has high-class associations and is still a dress shoe, but it is a comfortable workhorse.

And again, details can really transform a shoe. So yes, a specific model of an Oxford can indeed be more casual-looking than a certain model of a derby.

Which do you prefer? Oxfords or derbies? Do you prefer one in certain situations? Let me know in the comments!