Here’s a no-nonsense guide to dressing formally for guys.
So, you’ve been invited to a formal event. You’re excited but you’re not sure what to wear.
Since, for most people, formal events are few and far between, when one appears on the calendar it can be easy to panic.
Indeed, the black tie dress code is intertwined with seemingly archaic rules and customs. Untangling the intricate web into easy-to-understand basics can be difficult, to say the least.
It doesn’t have to be that way!
I’ll walk you through how to dress up the right way. After all, the last thing you want to worry about during a special event is your wardrobe.
While this article isn’t sponsored, special thanks to Suitsupply for offering the beautiful 6×1 black Havana double-breasted tuxedo featured in this article. Check out their tuxedo package!
The High Road or the Low Road: Two Approaches to Black Tie
What, then, is the “right way” to dress up? While there is an ideal, how correct you want to be depends on your individual situation.
In some sense, the “right way” depends on your goals and what you want to communicate.
Do you want to spend as little money as possible to not stick out like a sore thumb? Maybe you want to show off a little bit? Or perhaps you want to dress in the most “correct” way possible, historically speaking.
Although I, for one, am all for nailing all the little details that contribute to a well-executed black tie ensemble, I understand that this isn’t always realistic.
Sometimes, a well-made tuxedo is simply not in the budget. And, even if you have the cash, if you only anticipate one black tie event in the foreseeable future, buying a quality tuxedo still might not make sense to you.
Other times, you might not have much time between receiving the invitation and the event.
In either case, you’ll likely choose to rent or make do with items you already have in your closet.
Since everyone’s situation is different, in this article I’ll not only lay out the ideal tuxedo options, but I also include the bare minimum standard to get by in black tie scenarios.
What is a Tuxedo?
But before we get into the nitty-gritty, we have to answer the questions: “What exactly is a tuxedo? How is it different from a regular old suit?”
Don’t be embarrassed to ask — these are good questions!
The short answer is that a business suit consists of dress pants paired with a jacket in the same color and fabric.
A tuxedo, on the other hand, is a formal men’s garment consisting of pants and a jacket that’s typically black in color, has silk or satin lapel facings, and a stripe down the legs of the trousers.
However, there’s more to it than that. Here’s a more in-depth (albeit still abbreviated) definition of a tuxedo:
Tuxedo Color
A tuxedo is black or midnight (i.e. extremely dark) blue. Full stop.
Yes, you can find a bright orange tux with black accents (like I saw recently), but loud colors and other drastic departures from the norm aren’t appropriate for formal events. (They probably aren’t even appropriate even for creative black tie dress codes).
If you really want to play around with color, fabrics, and so on, opt for a dinner jacket instead of a full tuxedo (more on that later).
Tuxedo Lapel Styles
In suiting there are three styles of lapels: notched, peaked, and shawl lapels.
A tuxedo should have either peaked or shawl lapels, but not notched ones.
However, many rented tuxedos have notched lapels. I wouldn’t worry too much if you had to bend the rules here.
Tuxedo Lapel Facing
Tuxedos usually have lapels made from a different material than the rest of the jacket. Usually, you’ll find silk (grosgrain or plain silk) or satin-faced lapels.
However, some tuxedos have lapels that are self-facing (meaning they are the same material as the rest of the jacket).
Tuxedo Vents
Traditionally, tuxedos didn’t have vents on the back of the jacket. This contributed to a streamlined look.
Today double side vents are acceptable (and widespread).
Tuxedo: No Cuffs/Pleats
Your tuxedo trousers should not have cuffs and should be plain-fronted (i.e. without pleats). Cuffs and pleats are casual features by nature.
Tuxedo Trouser Stripes
Like the jacket, tuxedo trousers also are a bit different than regular suit pants.
For instance, they normally have a black silk or satin stripe down the leg and should not have belt loops.
Tuxedo Welt Pockets
Tuxedo pockets should not have a flap.
Instead, they should be jetted.
Covered Buttons
Most tuxedos have buttons faced with fabric (typically silk or satin).
Small details like this add to the elegance of the garment.
Tuxedo Materials
Tuxedos are typically wool, mohair, or a wool blend. Mine is a mixture of wool, silk, and linen.
Cheap polyester tuxedos take away from the occasion, in my opinion.
If I had a choice between wearing an ill-fitting polyester tuxedo or a quality, well-fitting dark suit to a black tie event, I’d choose the suit every time. I’d just be sure to wear it with a black bow tie.
What is a Dinner Jacket?
According to The Gentleman’s Gazette, a dinner jacket is “a matching or non-matching jacket worn with black tie. I can be black, midnight blue or any other color.”
I won’t be covering dinner jackets specifically here today, except to say that they are generally best for more casual formal evening events (as strange as that may sound). For example, an at-home dinner party is a good place to wear one.
However, a regular tuxedo jacket is always appropriate for black tie events.
Besides swapping out the jacket, all the other details are basically the same when wearing a dinner jacket.
Tuxedo Styles
Here, I’ll cover tuxedo styles according to button number and button pattern (how many buttons can be buttoned).
One Button Tuxedo
The most widely adopted tuxedo button pattern today is to simply have one button on the front of the jacket.
The name of the game in formalwear is streamlined simplicity. Why have two buttons when you could have just one?
Traditionally, tuxedo buttons are self-faced, meaning they are faced with silk or satin to match the lapels of the jacket.
When wearing a one-button tuxedo, you should button your jacket while standing. While sitting, your waist should be covered with a waist covering (either a cumberbund or a vest).
Two Button, Single-Breasted Tuxedo
While one-button tuxedos are most historically correct, today you’ll also see many two-button, single-breasted formal jackets.
The main impetus behind this button pattern is that manufacturers can simply reuse their standard two-button business suit pattern. You most often see rental tuxedos with two buttons, notched, self-facing lapels, and high-cut vests. It’s best to avoid this combination, if at all possible.
However, these days two-button tuxedos that otherwise have classic features are permissible (even though a one-button front is the classic standard).
Double Breasted 6×1
Double-breasted (DB) tuxedos are less common than single-breasted varieties. While wearing a DB you have the advantage of not needing to worry about wearing a waist covering. That’s because DB jackets are always worn buttoned up, even while sitting.
My tuxedo from SuitSupply has a 6×1 button pattern. What that means is that the jacket has 6 buttons, but only 1 is functional.
At first, I was apprehensive about this button stance, but, after trying on the jacket in the store I quickly fell in love with it.
The low buttoning point broadens and elongates my small frame.
While my tuxedo is unusual in the button department, the other features are what you’d expect from a well-made tuxedo.
The one thing I don’t love about this button stance is that when I sit down the jacket’s lapels tend to fold in an unsightly way. However, I think that is to be expected with this button configuration.
Double Breasted 6×2
The 6×2 pattern is probably the most classic option for double-breasted jackets. However, it wouldn’t be my personal choice for a tuxedo, though it’s hard for me to pinpoint why.
Somehow this pattern doesn’t seem as refined or streamlined as a 6×1 or a 4×2.
Double Breasted 4×2
As I mentioned, a 4×2 button pattern is another great option for a tuxedo. This pattern is especially great for shorter men as fewer buttons result in adding to an illusion of height.
Having too much visual clutter in the torso area can accentuate the midsection, and, by extension, one’s height.
Brian Sacawa from He Spoke Style wore this 4×2 tuxedo on his wedding day. I can see why. This jacket is stunning.
Double Breasted 4×1
A 4×1 tux is pretty much like a 6×1 but without the top row of buttons and the remaining buttons shifted up a bit on the waist.
I don’t have much to say about this style, except that it’s uncommon. So, if you opt for this one you’ll probably have to go for a custom piece.
Double Breasted 2×2
Another unexpected button pattern for a tuxedo is the 2×2. This style has two buttons arranged horizontally on the torso.
Consider this button pattern to subtly stand out from the crowd of black and white.
Common Black Tie Accessories
Now let’s move on from different tuxedo styles to tuxedo accessories.
In each section below, I’ll include both what I’d recommend if you want to be as “correct” as possible in your approach to black tie.
I’ll also include what to wear to get by (or be passable).
Shoot for the ideal if you’re buying your own tux or renting for an important occasion.
The “that’ll do” option in each section is for those who don’t care much about style, are on a tight budget, or are only attending one black tie event and are unlikely to attend another any time soon.
However, even if you only can identify one formal event on the horizon of your calendar, I’d invite you to at least consider at least some of the more traditional formal options.
Again, I’d argue that even in these situations it’s best to be as classic as possible, but I know that’s not realistic for many men on a tight budget.
Vests
As I mentioned, a single-breasted tuxedo should be worn with a waist covering. A vest is slightly more formal than a cumberbund.
Unlike a suit vest, a tuxedo vest should be low cut to expose your formal shirt front.
A black tie waistcoat can be either single or double-breasted and should have small lapels.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
While you can get away with a high-cut vest, a low-cut version is much preferable. At any rate, it’s certainly better than not wearing a waist covering at all.
Cumberbunds
The other classic waist-covering option is a cumberbund. A cumberbund is a pleated silk or satin sash worn over the waist.
The pleats should always be worn up. Historically, these pleats were used like tiny pockets to hold tickets and other small items.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
While a cumberbund should be made from a fine silk or satin, you can make do with a cheap polyester one. I doubt anyone will notice.
However, it’s best to get a nice one if you’ll be dressing up often.
Shirts
While at first glance, a tuxedo shirt might look like a regular white dress shirt (and it must be white). However, a tuxedo shirt is a bit different.
First off, no plastic or mother-of-pearl buttons should be showing. Instead, there will be a plain vertical flap that covers the buttons. Another option is to wear shirt studs.
Speaking of which, a formal shirt always has French cuffs. That means you’re going to need a classic pair of cufflinks.
The shirt collar can be of the turndown variety or a wing collar.
Wing collars were originally more associated with white tie ensembles, though they have long been appropriate for black tie as well. If you do opt for this shirt style, always make sure that the collar tips are behind your bow tie.
The shirt front may or not have vertical pleats. If you opt for pleats make sure to avoid gaudy ruffles.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
In a pinch, a regular-old white dress shirt will work for black tie. However, it must be pure white. No patterns or other colors will do.
Shoes
You have a few options for shoes for your formal night out. Well-shined black cap toes are perfectly appropriate.
However, an even more elegant option is a pair of black wholecuts.
Your shoes can be made from a high-shine patent leather or regular calf leather. Personally, I prefer calf leather shoes because I can wear them with a suit as well as formal wear.
I’d recommend going with closed-laced shoes rather than more informal open-laced dress shoes.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
Whatever black dress shoes you have can work with a tuxedo. Just make sure they’re clean and polished. However, get a pair of black cap toe leather-soled Oxfords as soon as you can.
Socks
Ideally, your socks for formal events should be black silk. However, black silk dress socks can get pricey. Unless you really want to get all the details right or you dress up frequently regular black dress socks will be just fine.
That said, try getting over-the-calf dress socks. You don’t want to risk having your leg hair exposed when you sit down.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
If you’re not concerned about being 100% correct, you can wear whatever black dress socks you already own with a tuxedo. However, they should be solid black, and, for goodness sake, don’t wear black athletic socks.
Bow Tie
A tuxedo must be worn with a bow tie. While there was a trend of wearing long black ties a few years ago, it never looked quite right.
As a rule of thumb, your bow tie should match the fabric and finishing of your jacket lapels as closely as possible.
For instance, my grosgrain bowtie matches my wide grosgrain lapels.
A butterfly bow tie is great for most men. Though, a batwing bow tie is also a versatile choice. A pointed bow tie is another classic option. Check out this article for more info on how to choose the best black bow tie for your needs.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
There is no way around it — you need to wear a black bow tie with a tux. Then again, you can probably get by with a polyester clip-on bow tie (but please don’t. Get a real bow tie).
Suspenders
You might be surprised to learn that tuxedos don’t have belt loops. Instead, they have side adjusters, or no adjusters at all.
Traditionally, you’d wear black silk suspenders that attach to your pants with buttons sewn into the inside of your waistband. Suspenders help your pants stay high up on your natural waist, helping you maintain a clean leg line.
I have to say, while I was initially apprehensive about wearing suspenders, I really like them. They are very comfortable to wear and keep up my pants better than side-adjusters alone or a belt.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
If there’s a chance that you’ll take off your jacket to dance or help clean up the venue, it’s best to wear suspenders — black silk ones, if you have them. However, for a one-off black tie event you can make do without them.
If you need a belt and your pants have belt loops, wear one. Just make sure it’s black with a plain, simple metal buckle.
Outerwear
Back in black tie’s heyday, well-to-do men would be expected to own a formal evening coat. However, as society has become increasingly casual, this type of outerwear is almost extinct.
Today, they can only really be made custom or found in vintage shops.
The one time I saw a true formal overcoat was when I was at The Belvedere Bash hosted by Teresa and Sven Raphael Schneider from The Gentleman’s Gazette. There I caught a glimpse of Raphael’s vintage, black, one-button, long overcoat with silk-faced lapels.
Another classic, but perhaps even more rare option is the evening cloak (also called a cape). While hardly ever seen anymore, they are still technically an option for black and white tie events.
I tried on a bespoke formal cloak during The Belvedere Bash’s formal gala. While at first I thought it was a little over the top, once I put it on my shoulders all doubt left my mind. I felt powerful!
Not only that, it was very comfortable. I don’t know, maybe capes can make a comeback someday.
Instead of trying to convince your wife that you need a cape, you can make do with a long overcoat.
I think my navy, double-breasted coat pairs very well with my tuxedo. This is an instance in which the darker (and longer) the coat, the better.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
If you don’t have a long wool overcoat, simply don’t wear a coat. Most black tie events are inside anyway.
If a coat is truly necessary, wear whatever you have that keeps you warm (preferably dark in color).
Cufflinks/Studs
Traditionally, black tie called for gold-color cufflinks and studs and white tie, silver-colored. These days, you can choose either silver or gold-colored cufflinks.
It almost goes without saying that you should avoid novelty studs and cufflinks. No one wants to see your pig shirt studs at their formal wedding (granted, they’re kind of cool).
You can wear cufflinks and studs with stones (such as black onyx), but, again, avoid anything too flashy.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
If you’re making due with a regular white dress shirt it probably has barrel cuffs (i.e. cuffs with buttons). In that case, you don’t even have the option to wear studs or cufflinks.
Watch
Back in the day, it was considered rude to wear a watch during formal occasions. “Why would you look at your watch if you’re enjoying yourself?”, was the thinking.
No one will bat an eye if you wear one today.
That’s considering you’re wearing a sleek dress watch, preferably on a black leather strap and small in diameter.
However, I think there’s something to be said for skipping the watch while wearing a tux.
A few weeks ago I attended a formal event and once or twice I looked down at my wrist only to remember I wasn’t wearing a watch. That was a great reminder to me to stay present and to truly pay attention to the people around me.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
If you don’t have a sleek dress watch on a black strap (and most people don’t), simply forgo wearing a watch.
Pocket Square
Along with a black bow tie, a white linen or, my preference, silk, pocket square is a classic formal accessory.
I recommend wearing one folded straight across in a presidential fold.
A colorful pocket square may be appropriate for creative black tie dress codes, but typically a white one is the only appropriate color to wear with a tuxedo.
The “That’ll Do” Option:
It’s not hard to find a white handkerchief that you could use as a pocket square. However, you can get by without one.
Other Accessories
Those were the (more or less) essential elements of a tuxedo. Here are some other, less common accessories you can wear to a black tie event.
None of these options are necessary or expected, but are just good options.
Avoid overloading on accessories, however. Remember, a tuxedo isn’t a costume.
Gloves
There is an old tradition of wearing white gloves to formal events, even when inside.
Personally, I’d probably only wear white gloves outdoors.
While these days white gloves, like many formal accessories, are much less common than in the past, they remain an option.
Scarf
A white silk scarf is another old-school evening accessory.
Like white gloves, a white evening scarf can be worn indoors.
Boutonniere
Bond wore one, so why can’t you?
A boutonniere is a small flower worn in your jacket’s buttonhole.
While these can be natural flowers, there are advantages to quality silk boutonnieres. (They won’t die on you, for one thing).
A carnation is a classic choice.
Fort Belvedere is, without a doubt, the best place to buy these hard-to-find classic accessories.
Lapel Pin
A lapel pin, I think, is too casual for formal attire.
However, in some communities, including various fraternities, they are commonly seen with black tie.
Shirt Stays
Shirt stays aren’t a visible accessory, although they can certainly improve your appearance.
Shirt stays clip onto your socks and onto the hem of your shirt to help keep your shirt tucked in place. I wear my shirt stays often but not every time I dress up.
Read More About Black Tie
For more on black tie accessories, click here. For an exhaustive look at the black tie dress code, I’d highly recommend The Gentleman’s Gazette’s guide.
Enjoy Dressing Up!
I hope this guide was helpful to you as you prepare for your black tie event!
If you don’t mind, let me offer one final recommendation.
On the day of your event, after you put on your tuxedo and have double-checked all the details in front of the mirror, forget about your clothes.
Really.
Don’t constantly worry about your bowtie going off-kilter or your shoes getting scuffed. Simply enjoy the event.
Life isn’t all about appearance, after all.
If you have any specific questions about how to wear a tuxedo, tuxedo fit, or style in general, join The Modest Man private Facebook group and post your questions!
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