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An In-Depth Guide to German Army Trainers (GATs)

Published on February 27, 2021 by Brock McGoff · Shoes May contain affiliate links (what's this?)

German Army Trainers (GATs) are some of the coolest and most comfortable sneakers you’ll ever wear.

How to wear GATs
Wearing German Army Trainers from Maison Margiela

But what are GAT sneakers? Where’d they come from, and why are they so popular?

What’s the best German Army Trainer you can buy? What about more affordable alternatives?

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This guide will answer all of those questions and more. Sit back and relax: here’s everything you need to know about GATs.

Thanks to Our Sponsor

This article is sponsored by Mytheresa, a luxury e-retailer that carries over 100 amazing menswear brands from around the world.

Mytheresa provided several of the pieces you’ll see throughout this post, like the Maison Margiela Replicas – the quintessential German Army Trainers.

Mytheresa guarantees the authenticity of their products. They also offer free 2-day shipping in the U.S. and free returns.

Want to have a luxury boutique shopping experience without leaving your house? Click here to check out Mytheresa.


What Are German Army Trainers?

The German Army Trainer, or GAT, is a style of sneaker that’s actually been around since the 1970s.

There’s some confusion about who actually produced the original model almost 50 years ago, although it looks like Adidas (and maybe Puma) was involved.

Either way, hundreds of thousands of these sneakers were manufactured in the 1980s, fulfilling a government contract to outfit West German Army soldiers with training shoes.

West German Army 1980s
West German Army platoon, late 1980s | Source: Reddit

After the Cold War ended, ex-soldiers sold their gear to surplus shops, flooding the market with these well-built minimalist leather sneakers.

While the silhouette has been copied, modified and remixed many times over the decades – most famously by fashion designer Martin Margiela – all GATs have a few common design elements:

  • Leather upper (usually white)
  • Gum sole
  • Suede detailing

The original German Army Trainer (the one produced for West German Army soldiers) had a distinctive suede overlay on the toe box and an extra piece of white leather sewn onto the side panel.

BW sport old pair
Original BW Sport Trainers | Source: eBay

Modern GATs, like the Margiela Replica, have the same iconic grey suede detailing on the toe box, along with suede eyestays, suede side panels, and a suede patch on the heel.

Maison Margiela GATs 12
Maison Margiela Replica

The traditional GAT was white, grey and gum. Modern GATs come in many different colorways, many of which don’t even have gum soles.

What really makes a GAT recognizable is the extra panel on the toe box. Even if it’s not made from suede, or if it’s the same color as the upper, it’s always there.

BW Sport: The Original GAT Shoes

The original German Army Trainer was either produced by adidas or Puma (shockingly, this is still up for debate). It was called the BW Sport and can still be purchased through secondhand shops like eBay.

BW Sport sneakers
Original BW Sport Sneakers | Source: Grailed

BW stands for “bundeswehr sportschuhe” which means “federal defence sports shoe” in German.

Many purists prefer to hunt for a pair of these original GATs in the right size and condition, which run anywhere from $40 to $100 plus shipping.

But, if budget allows, it might make sense to spend a little more on what is arguably the best iteration of this iconic sneaker style…

Maison Margiela Replica GAT Sneakers

Launched in 1998, the Margiela GAT has had a cult following among men’s fashion enthusiasts for over 20 years.

Maison Margiela GATs 13
Margiela Replica Sneakers

Compared to the minimalist white leather sneaker (i.e., Adidas Stan Smith or Common Projects Achilles), the MM GAT has always flown way under the radar.

But in certain communities, like Reddit’s r/malefashionadvice, it’s never gone out of style – and for good reason.

Maison Margiela GATs 16
Margiela GATs

Belgian fashion designer, Martin Margiela, actually used the original BW Sport sneakers in runway shows before designing his upscale reinterpretation of the shoe under his namesake label.

The first colorway was and is still true to the original – white, grey and gum with minimal branding.

Maison Margiela GATs 15
Compared to the original BW Sport trainers, Margiela GATs have more suede detailing.

The biggest difference was the use of grey suede on the heel, eyestay and side panel.

Of course, since Maison Margiela is a high end label, Replica Sneakers are made with more luxurious materials compared to their utilitarian predecessors.

Maison Margiela GATs 17
These shoes are well built and meant to be worn. You don’t need to baby them!

They’re not dainty, though. These sneakers are built to last and can take a beating. You’ll get many years of hard wear out of these, and they’ll look even better with age.

Different Colors

These days, Maison Margiela introduces new colorways to their Replica line each season. Their paint splatter Replica is always a big hit.

Grey paint splatter GATs
Grey paint splatter GATs | Source: Reddit

I think the different colorways are cool, but if you want a minimal shoe collection, the original white/grey version is your best option.

How to Wear GAT Sneakers

These are casual sneakers. Unlike, say, Common Projects Achilles, you can’t really dress up a pair of German Army Trainers. If you wore them with a suit, it would just look strange.

But with shorts, jeans or chinos, GATs feel right at home.

GATs medium wash jeans 6
shoes | jeans | sweater
Maison Margiela GATs 4

The neutral colors go with literally anything in your closet. Any shade of denim will look great against these sneakers, including light wash, grey and black.

GATs chino shorts polo shirt 6
shoes | polo | shorts
Maison Margiela GATs 9

Any type of shorts, chino pants or corduroys will work well too, including tan, olive, grey, navy, burgundy and brown.

GATs corduroys sweater 11
shoes | corduroys | sweater
Maison Margiela GATs 7

I find myself reaching for GATs when I’m wearing casual pants, like jeans or cords, and casual knit tops.

GATs chinos long sleeve polo 2
shoes | chinos | shirt
Maison Margiela GATs

I love the fresh, minimal, laid back vibe this combination produces. And, while I love plain white sneakers, the GAT style gives a simple outfit a little extra personality.

Margiela GAT Alternatives

Maison Margiela Replica Sneakers are a fantastic choice if you can afford them. They do sometimes go on sale, and you can buy them secondhand on eBay, Grailed or Poshmark.

Maison Margiela GATs 28
If you have the budget for Margiela GATs (or can find them on sale), you won’t regret your purchase.

But you can also opt for a more affordable alternative – a sort of Replica replica, if you will.

All of these Maison Margiela Replica alternatives are worth your consideration:

  • Oliver Cabell GAT
  • Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainer
  • Svensson Army Sport

You really can’t go wrong with any of those, so don’t overthink it!

Questions About GAT Shoes

Here are answers to some of the most commonly asked questions about GAT sneakers:

What are GAT shoes?

GAT shoes, also called “GAT sneakers” or German Army Trainers, are leather sneakers with suede accents and gum soles. They are usually white and grey, but these days you can find them in a wide variety of colors.

Who made the original German Army Trainer?

The original GATs were called the BW Sport, and they were made by either adidas or Puma (this is still up for debate) in the 1970s.

How do you style GAT sneakers?

GATs are casual sneakers. They work well with jeans, chinos and shorts. Pair them with t-shirts, polos or casual button ups for a casual or smart casual look.

How do you clean Margiela GATs?

Since Margiela GATs are made from leather and suede, you’ll need to clean the leather and suede parts separately. To remove dirt, use a wet wipe on the leather and sole. Soak the laces in hot soapy water or a mixture of water and bleach, then let them dry. Use a suede brush to clean the suede patches.

Final Thoughts

The German Army Trainer is one of the best casual sneaker styles you can add to your wardrobe, especially if you want to set yourself apart from the pack.

I’d love to hear your thoughts: do you wear GAT sneakers? If not, would you buy a pair?

Share your thoughts in the comments section below!

Shoes GATs, german army trainers, Maison Margiela, sneakers

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About Brock McGoff

The Modest Man founder, Brock is an aspiring minimalist who enjoys working out, spending time with his family, discovering new brands and creating great content.

Background: Brock McGoff has a bachelor's degree in psychology and a professional background in digital marketing. He believes that men's fashion is just one facet of self-improvement, and he started The Modest Man to help regular guys feel more confident by improving their appearance.

An east coast native, Brock currently lives in Arizona with his wife and daughter. When he's not working, he spends time with family, training BJJ, reading/listening to books and podcasts, and unsuccessfully trying to decide which movie to stream.

Expertise: Brock has built a men's lifestyle YouTube channel with over 400k subscribers. He's also worked as the creative marketing manager in a men's apparel startup. Brock has been quoted in, mentioned by or featured in publications like Esquire, Huff Post, Men's Health, WWD and Forbes.

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    Got questions? Want to share your opinion? Comment below!

  1. Ekon says

    March 1, 2022 at 11:23 pm

    Great lesson on the history of GATs! You made great points throughout, with my only pushback being you recommending the Svensson GATs. They have a different sole type than the other GATs. The Svenssons are more like a pair of Vans to me. They dont look right compared to the BS or MM Gats…or even the Adidas OGs.

    Reply
  2. dave says

    October 31, 2021 at 5:21 am

    why are your trousers so short
    don’t your ankles get cold

    Reply

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