An In-Depth Guide to German Army Trainers (GATs)

German Army Trainers (GATs) are some of the coolest and most comfortable sneakers you’ll ever wear.

But what are GAT sneakers? Where’d they come from, and why are they so popular?

What’s the best German Army Trainer you can buy? What about more affordable alternatives?

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This guide will answer all of those questions and more. Sit back and relax: here’s everything you need to know about GATs.

What Are German Army Trainers?

The German Army Trainer, or GAT, is a style of sneaker that’s actually been around since the 1970s.

There’s some confusion about who actually produced the original model almost 50 years ago, although it looks like Adidas (and maybe Puma) was involved.

Either way, hundreds of thousands of these sneakers were manufactured in the 1980s, fulfilling a government contract to outfit West German Army soldiers with training shoes.

After the Cold War ended, ex-soldiers sold their gear to surplus shops, flooding the market with these well-built minimalist leather sneakers.

While the silhouette has been copied, modified and remixed many times over the decades – most famously by fashion designer Martin Margiela – all GATs have a few common design elements:

• Leather upper (usually white)
• Gum sole
• Suede detailing

The original German Army Trainer (the one produced for West German Army soldiers) had a distinctive suede overlay on the toe box and an extra piece of white leather sewn onto the side panel.

Modern GATs, like the Margiela Replica, have the same iconic grey suede detailing on the toe box, along with suede eyestays, suede side panels, and a suede patch on the heel.

The traditional GAT was white, grey and gum. Modern GATs come in many different colorways, many of which don’t even have gum soles.

What really makes a GAT recognizable is the extra panel on the toe box. Even if it’s not made from suede, or if it’s the same color as the upper, it’s always there.

BW Sport: The Original GAT Shoes

The original German Army Trainer was either produced by adidas or Puma (shockingly, this is still up for debate). It was called the BW Sport and can still be purchased through secondhand shops like eBay.

BW stands for “bundeswehr sportschuhe” which means “federal defence sports shoe” in German.

Many purists prefer to hunt for a pair of these original GATs in the right size and condition, which run anywhere from $40 to $100 plus shipping.

But, if budget allows, it might make sense to spend a little more on what is arguably the best iteration of this iconic sneaker style…

Maison Margiela Replica GAT Sneakers

Launched in 1998, the Margiela GAT has had a cult following among men’s fashion enthusiasts for over 20 years.

Compared to the minimalist white leather sneaker (i.e., Adidas Stan Smith or Common Projects Achilles), the MM GAT has always flown way under the radar.

But in certain communities, like Reddit’s r/malefashionadvice, it’s never gone out of style – and for good reason.

Belgian fashion designer, Martin Margiela, actually used the original BW Sport sneakers in runway shows before designing his upscale reinterpretation of the shoe under his namesake label.

The first colorway was and is still true to the original – white, grey and gum with minimal branding.

The biggest difference was the use of grey suede on the heel, eyestay and side panel.

Of course, since Maison Margiela is a high end label, Replica Sneakers are made with more luxurious materials compared to their utilitarian predecessors.

They’re not dainty, though. These sneakers are built to last and can take a beating. You’ll get many years of hard wear out of these, and they’ll look even better with age.

Different Colors

These days, Maison Margiela introduces new colorways to their Replica line each season. Their paint splatter Replica is always a big hit.

I think the different colorways are cool, but if you want a minimal shoe collection, the original white/grey version is your best option.

How to Wear GAT Sneakers

These are casual sneakers. Unlike, say, Common Projects Achilles, you can’t really dress up a pair of German Army Trainers. If you wore them with a suit, it would just look strange.

But with shorts, jeans or chinos, GATs feel right at home.

The neutral colors go with literally anything in your closet. Any shade of denim will look great against these sneakers, including light wash, grey and black.

Any type of shorts, chino pants or corduroys will work well too, including tan, olive, grey, navy, burgundy and brown.

I find myself reaching for GATs when I’m wearing casual pants, like jeans or cords, and casual knit tops.

I love the fresh, minimal, laid back vibe this combination produces. And, while I love plain white sneakers, the GAT style gives a simple outfit a little extra personality.

Margiela GAT Alternatives

Maison Margiela Replica Sneakers are a fantastic choice if you can afford them. They do sometimes go on sale, and you can buy them secondhand on eBay, Grailed or Poshmark.

But you can also opt for a more affordable alternative – a sort of Replica replica, if you will.

All of these Maison Margiela Replica alternatives are worth your consideration:

• Oliver Cabell GAT
• Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainer
• Svensson Army Sport

You really can’t go wrong with any of those, so don’t overthink it!

Questions About GAT Shoes

Here are answers to some of the most commonly asked questions about GAT sneakers:

What are GAT shoes?

GAT shoes, also called “GAT sneakers” or German Army Trainers, are leather sneakers with suede accents and gum soles. They are usually white and grey, but these days you can find them in a wide variety of colors.

Who made the original German Army Trainer?

The original GATs were called the BW Sport, and they were made by either adidas or Puma (this is still up for debate) in the 1970s.

How do you style GAT sneakers?

GATs are casual sneakers. They work well with jeans, chinos and shorts. Pair them with t-shirts, polos or casual button ups for a casual or smart casual look.

How do you clean Margiela GATs?

Since Margiela GATs are made from leather and suede, you’ll need to clean the leather and suede parts separately. To remove dirt, use a wet wipe on the leather and sole. Soak the laces in hot soapy water or a mixture of water and bleach, then let them dry. Use a suede brush to clean the suede patches.

Final Thoughts

The German Army Trainer is one of the best casual sneaker styles you can add to your wardrobe, especially if you want to set yourself apart from the pack.

I’d love to hear your thoughts: do you wear GAT sneakers? If not, would you buy a pair?

Share your thoughts in the comments section below!