Shorter men often wonder if they can pull off wearing a double-breasted suit or sport coat. There's so much conflicting and inaccurate info around the web, so I want to clear this issue up once and for all.
Most “style gurus” tell shorter men to stay away from DB suits, lest you end up looking shorter and fatter than you really are.
There is some truth to this. If you wear a double-breasted suit that doesn't fit well, it's going to make you look really bad.
But the thing is, any suit that doesn't fit well is going to look bad, even if it's a plain old single-breasted suit.
Short men can rock DB suits like the best of them, but they have to follow three guidelines:
- Your suit has to fit impeccably well
- Keep the jacket cropped extra short
- Go with four buttons (not six buttons)
I explain each of these guidelines in more detail in this video:
Here's the thing: double-breasted suits aren't as versatile or common as single-breasted suits, so you should only buy one if you already have your basic suit collection in place.
If you've got the staples (one navy and one grey single-breasted suit, at a minimum), feel free to expand your collection by adding a DB suit to the mix.
And if you need some inspiration, here are a few stylish modest men achieving baller status in their DB suits:
Of course, I had to include a picture of yours truly rocking a DB suit. This is the same suit I'm wearing in the above video, and I'm wearing it here for a summer wedding (hence no tie).
I hope this guide gives you the knowledge and courage to try on a double-breasted suit or jacket.
As always, share your thoughts or questions in the comments below!
A good article Brock, and food for thought. I had even hesitated before buying a peacoat for the same concerns you mention above. I finally puchased a well fitting coat from Gloverall and I can indeed wear double breasted and look good.
This is one of those times I do in fact lean toward the tighter fit to balance out the impression of extra width. I just can’t stand having to keep it buttoned up all the time.
Hey Brock, what’s the bracelet your wearing in the video?
It’s from a shop on a Navajo reservation in Arizona (was a gift). Pretty sweet, huh?
Hi Brock, in my opinion..when the suit is fit, everything gonna be okay..
And yes,, too much buttons will harm the appearances..
Perfect fit on those last 2 pics.
Does it matter if I’m have a long torso and short legs? That is why I’ve avoided the DBs in the past. Felt like a huge walking box with tiny legs hanging out.
You would need to wear higher rise trousers and keep the jacket length extra short. If you do that, you can completely change the way your proportions are perceived.
More on that here:
http://www.primermagazine.com/2013/spend/pants-rise-explained-and-why-low-rise-isnt-always-your-best-choice
Hey Brock, great article as always. I was wondering if you could tell me where you picked up this suit, or where you had it made?
I’ve been looking everywhere for a 4-button double-breasted suit and it’s so tricky to find one. Any recommendations?
Best,
-Dave
It’s from a company called Knot Standard, but any custom suit maker should be able to do it.
Ah, gotchya. Thanks for the reply.
What you said makes sense Brock, but you left out a very important point. Your advice flies out the window when dealing with guys who are short but broad. At 5’8″ I’m hardly tall, but I need a 48″ jacket. Wearing a double breasted just makes me look like a wall with buttons on it.
It’s not that short men “shouldn’t” wear double breasted suits, it’s more that they don’t look AS good as single breasted on them. Even a perfectly fitting double tends to overwhelm smaller frames with 4 buttons and extra fabric when compared with a single’s streamlined appearance. So why wear a double when a single is simply better looking?
how big are the cuffs on your pants?
What are the width of your lapels?