Oxfords vs Brogues: What’s the Difference?

If you’re curious about the differences between Oxfords and brogues, this article will show you what you need to know.

If you’re striving to be a well-dressed man, you probably should know your way around the world of dress shoes. Here’s a pretty simple but undeniably important topic you should know how to navigate: Brogue vs. Oxford.

What are the differences between the two? More importantly, when should one wear brogues, and when should one wear oxfords? 

Don’t fret. This guide will help you out.

What’s the Difference Between Oxfords and Brogues?

So technically, the terms Oxford and Brogue aren’t even mutually exclusive.

An Oxford shoe features a closed lacing system. The shoelace eyelet tabs are sewn beneath the vamp, resulting in a slimmer silhouette and fit. 

Do you know the tabs on your shoe with the eyelet holes you string your laces through? Those are the eyelet tabs.

Compare this to a derby with an open lacing system or eyelet tabs sewn right on top of the vamp. It’s more topographical, making the oxford more of a formal shoe since the seams run directly beneath the laces.

They’re embedded into the surface for a cleaner look. Brogues are shoes that feature decorative perforations throughout the body of the shoe.

The more broguing there is, the less dressy it is. You can have a type of shoe with a closed lacing system and these decorative perforations, making that shoe both an Oxford and a brogue.

Oxfords also often have an exposed ankle, a heeled leather sole, and a separately stitched tongue.

The Formality Factor

In general, simple Oxford shoes are more formal than anything with broguing. However, their formality varies since there are a few Oxford subcategories. Another reason brogues are considered less dressy than Oxfords is their history.

Oxfords were worn by students at, you guessed it, Oxford University in the 1800s. They’re visually and culturally associated with educated professionals, professors, academia, and suiting in general.

Meanwhile, broguing originated around the British Isles. Farmers wore brogued shoes so they didn’t get flooded with rain water or bog moisture. Of course, today, British farmers have far more practical and effective ways to deal with water. 

Today, broguing is mainly used for decorative purposes.

Still, these pragmatic associations make it less of a formal piece of footwear. Brogues were popular on the golf course in the ‘30s and paired with zoot suits in the ‘40s. You can still wear brogues as dress shoes, but they definitely have sporty and sometimes flashy undertones.

Types of Oxfords

Here are the main types of Oxfords:

Plain-Toe Oxfords vs Cap-Toe Oxfords

A plain-toe oxford is a minimal shoe with no details on the toe area. Meanwhile, a cap-toe has a piece of leather decoratively stitched over the toe box. It can also feature simple broguing on the stitching.

The former is dressier and perfect for suits and tuxedos. The latter is great for suits, smart casual situations, and even jeans.

Whole-Cut Oxfords

Made from one single piece of leather, a whole-cut Oxford is so simple it almost looks like an opera pump.

They’re one of the most formal-looking dress shoes because of their clean and minimal design.

Brogued Oxfords

And, of course, any oxford with decorative perforations is also a brogue.

This also includes saddle shoes. But, let’s give the brogues their own spotlight.

Types of Brogues

Remember, the more ornate the brogue is, the less formal it is. Here they are!

The Wingtip Brogue

This brogue features a W-shaped piece of leather attached to the top of the upper. 

Of course, it wouldn’t be a brogue shoe if there weren’t perforations lining the edges of that W. And, if there’s no perforation on that ‘W,’ it’s a wingtip but not a brogue.

Wingtips are one of the more ornate types of brogue shoes.

The Longwing Brogue

This brogue also has that W-shaped piece of leather on it, but it has a longer look overall. 

The arms of the ‘W’ move into each side of the shoe, then dip down into the sole. Basically, each arm of the ‘W’ goes all the way around the shoe. Then, these arms connect at the back.

It looks like a W-shaped ballet flat attached to a dress shoe.

The Semi Brogue

This shoe lacks the W-shaped layer on the vamp. It’s therefore cleaner and more formal.

It’ll still feature the perforations in the usual areas, including anywhere there’s stitching, around the eyelet stays, the collar, and the toe. 

The decorative perforations on the toe are called a medallion.

Quarter Brogue

A quarter brogue lacks the W-shaped layer as well as the medallion. As such, it’s the dressiest style of brogue.

Final Thoughts: Brogues vs Oxfords

The quick and dirty is that clean oxfords are dressier than anything with brogues. However, it’s really all about balance.

You can still wear a pair of black Oxfords with subtle broguing on the cap-toe stitch in formal situations. Technically, that shoe is a brogue — just barely, though.

Besides, who says you can’t wear suede oxfords with jeans and a T-shirt? Just don’t wear them with athletic wear, and you’re good to go.

Do you prefer brogues to oxfords? Or are you like me and like a nice clean whole-cut? Perhaps you’re a moderate and like subtle perforations? Let me know!