This post is made possible by Deo Veritas, whose shirts I've worn since 2013.
Deo Veritas is one of the first online made-to-measure shirt companies I reviewed (back in August 2013). Here's the link to that post:
That first shirt turned out pretty well, especially considering the fact that I didn't have much experience with buying MTM shirts at the time.
Don't get me wrong – it wasn't perfect. The shoulders were too wide. I didn't really have my body measurements nailed down back then, and I submitted the wrong shoulder measurement.
But it's still a nice shirt. I've worn it somewhat regularly, and I can honestly say that it's one of the highest quality MTM shirts I own (and I have a lot of them).
The shirt has held up extremely well over the years, which is not always the case with MTM garments.
You probably notice how shirts fall apart over time, right? Buttons come off, threads come loose and – my personal pet peeve – the collar gets misshapen.
None of this has happened to my first Deo Veritas shirt, and I expect this new one to age just as gracefully.
We all want high quality shirts, and every company claims that their shirts are the best. But how can you tell if it's true?
What Makes a High Quality Shirt
There are two things that determine the quality of a shirt:
- Materials (fabric, etc.)
- Craftsmanship
The best fabric in the world won't make up for shoddy construction quality, and top notch craftsmanship is wasted on low quality materials.
Deo Veritas offers a range of fabrics – from affordable basics to some of the best in the world (like Thomas Mason and Tessitura Monti).
For this review, I went with a Thomas Mason yellow and blue grid pattern ($133).
The fabric quality is what you can expect from Thomas Mason – premium. The construction quality is on point as well.
Notice the following:
- Single needle stitching
- Sewn collar interlining (for $9 extra, highly recommended)
- 16+ stitches per inch
- Mother of Pearl buttons (cross-stitched)
- Split yoke (notice the pattern matching)
- Removable collar stays
These are little details, but they make a big difference.
Split yoke construction (seen above) requires more fabric, especially if you want the pattern to meet in the middle. This is called pattern matching, and it's typically a sign of high quality craftsmanship.
Bottom line: it's a really nice shirt. But you know that fit is more important than anything else, including quality. So how does this shirt fit?
Let's take a look:
The neck, shoulders, chest and sleeves are near perfect. I usually avoid spread or cutaway collars because I have a narrow face. But this one looks okay because the collar point length is so short.
As you can see, it fits really well. Yes, there is some excess fabric on the lower back. This could be fixed with darts, as seen in my original DV review:
Darts are a good idea, especially if you have a “V” shaped torso. You can also use a clean tuck (like the military tuck) to prevent your shirts from bunching up around your waist.
Honestly, though, it's not a big deal.
Don't get too hung up on every little wrinkle or fold. Shirts aren't meant to be perfectly smooth, as if they were painted on.
Plus, a little extra fabric is usually much more comfortable.
If you order from DV, I recommend using their QSizing tool. It's an eight question survey that helps nail down your measurements by comparing your data to the entire customer database.
Just remember: algorithmic tools like this aren't perfect. Always measure yourself and your best-fitting shirt, then compare those numbers to whatever the tool comes up with.
Another thing I like about Deo Veritas is the fact that they offer custom neckties. You can choose the fabric, length and width of your tie.
This is great news for shorter men since most ties are several inches too long.
This tie is 55″ instead of the standard 58″. If you're under 5'6″, I recommend going even shorter (maybe 53″).
The colors and patterns look great together.
Like my original Deo Veritas shirt, this one has earned a permanent spot in my closet. It's not the most affordable MTM shirt in my collection, but it's definitely one of the best.
What do you think about this shirt and tie? Leave a comment below!
I always thought spread collars were good for people with narrow faces as it draws people’s attention outward.
“Shirts aren’t meant to be perfectly smooth, as if they were painted on. And a little extra fabric is usually more comfortable.”
Glad you said that. A few guys get strangely obsessive with this, trying to get a shirt that looks painted on. Clothes should be comfortable.
I think wide spread collars, especially ones with long collar points, make narrow faces look even narrower. Usually the goal is to achieve some balance (narrow collar + narrow face = balance).
But it works here because the point length is short, you know?
Yeah man, the slim fit thing has gone pretty far…
hey brock. could you make a video / article about how to tell if a shirt is of good make? u talk about Single needle stitching for example but how can u tell?
Single needle will have one line of stitching, while double will have two lines very close together.
Good idea, though. I’ll make a whole post about these details.
Thanks for writing this up, Brock.
How would you compare Blank Label, Ratio Clothing, Deo Veritas, and Lewis & Taylor?
I haven’t tried Ratio since they went MTM, so can’t really comment on them. In terms of materials and construction quality, L&T or DV take the cake.
Blank Label is a great value for the price, and their customer service is top notch. But they lack a few customizations that I like (forearm width, cuff length, etc.).
Keep in mind, I’ve only ordered one shirt from L&T, and that was a while ago.
But If I had to pick one right now, it would be DV, especially since they have the non-fused collars. That’s an awesome upgrade.
What advantage is the split yoke for the fit? I am not a fan of the split yoke look, especially on a narrow small fit shirt. The collar seems a tad bit short but a nice style. Do you think the upper back is a good fit? It looks snug. Colours of shirt, tie and suit are spot on. Good article.
The shot answer is: no real advantage. Some would say it’s more elegant (because it requires more fabric and skill), but it’s really just a matter of personal preference.
More on that here:
http://propercloth.com/reference/dress-shirts-split-yoke-vs-one-piece-yoke/
The upper back (and chest) is a tiny bit snug. But I’ve been working my shoulders and back a lot recently, and I didn’t adjust my measurements accordingly.
#swollprobs
(Kidding of course…kinda)
Hey Sharon / Brock,
To add to the discussion … one other advantage to a split yoke is that the yoke thread will loosen slightly over time (based on your activity) and you’ll notice that you have more arm / shoulder movement than if you had a one piece yoke.
Thanks,
Vinnie
Thanks for the comment. Is this a good thing?? Is the yoke going to lose its shape or sag with the bias cut?? Maybe only a slight bias cut. I guess you can tell I am not a fan of the split yoke.
Hi Sharon,
The yoke shouldn’t lose it’s shape… I guess it could if the stitching was poorly done. Most shirtmakers will be able to to make you a one piece yoke if that’s your preference.
Thanks,
Vinnie
Two questions:
1. So the shirt is constructed by Deo Veritas…but the fabric is from TMM? Their branding is kinda’ confusing.
2. How long did it take your order to arrive?
Thanks.
Typically a garment manufacturer doesn’t make their own fabrics. They order fabric from mills all over the world.
I think it took a little over 3 weeks.
Never heard of darts. As I have learnt something new!
BROCK you just did it again. love the shirt want to know if DV shirts can be shipped.
Brock i want you to do some word on socks really have a hard time chosing when to where them or not.
Hey Brock, have heard of these guys?
https://www.mtailor.com/
It’s a really cool concept using your phone to scan you for measurements. And they claim they are 20% more accurate than tailors. I saw some good reviews on YouTube, some others where not completely satisfied at first, but like any good MTM company, it seemed like MTailor worked with them until theymade it right.
I’d love to see you put together a review from these guys.
Keep up the good work!
I’ll check them out. Heard of them but haven’t tried it yet. Very skeptical that this will work better than a real, in person tailor (that’s a bold claim!).
Yeah, gotta love the “20% more accurate than tailors” claim that is based on their own analysis. Still, cool concept nonetheless! Love to hear a take from a fellow modest man vs any old YouTuber.
Hi Brock, need a little advice. My shirt order is stale, Deo Veritas shirt company. over 2 months since placing order. Upon first contact they stated they were busy ans wait for as tutus some time next week. Well it’s now 3 wks and they haven’t even responded to my last email requesting a status.. Can I cancel this order? Is this a normal time span