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6 Best Horsebit Loafers for Men (For Any Budget)

Published on March 20, 2020 by William Barton · Shoes May contain affiliate links (what's this?)

Whether you’re looking for the best horsebit loafers available or an affordable Gucci alternative, there’s something for everyone on this list.

Table of Contents

  • Quick Take
  • What Are Horsebit Loafers?
  • 3 Things to Consider When Buying Horsebit Loafers
    • 1. Setting – Where do you work and play?
    • 2. Cost – What’s your budget?
    • 3. Practicality – How often will you wear them?
  • Tips for Wearing Horsebit Loafers
  • The 5 Best Horsebit Loafers for Men
    • 1. Jay Butler Millbank Bit Loafer
    • 2. Beckett Simonon Beaumont Horsebit Loafer
    • 3. Rancourt & Co Horsebit Loafer
    • 4. Gucci 1953 Horsebit Loafer
    • 5. Idrese Andre
    • 6. Aldo Baysien
  • Final Thoughts

There’s an art to whittling your shoe collection to the bare minimum, but who said art was any fun?

Sometimes you want to break out and add a little flair to your outfit with the perfect pair of shoes.

Jay Butler Suede horsebit loafers

That’s where the horsebit loafer comes in. It’s a classic style with what the Italians call gusto—a little extra personality.

In this article, we’re going to break down what horsebit loafers are, how to wear them like a champion and our favorite versions of the style.

Quick Take

Need the shortlist? Here are our top three horsebit loafer picks:

Our Pick
Jay Butler Millbank Bit Loafer
Jay Butler Millbank Bit Loafer
$195

Jay Butler makes the top of our list because of the value they bring with every shoe. The Millbank loafer is fully lined with leather and extremely comfortable.

Buy Now
Budget Pick
Aldo Baysien
Aldo Baysien
$120

We only recommend these if you want a pair of loafers under $150. Otherwise, it's best to opt for a higher quality option.

Buy Now
Upgrade Pick
Rancourt & Co Horsebit Loafer
Rancourt & Co Horsebit Loafer
$340

This shoe is a great blend between the classic American loafer and the Italian fashion icon.

Buy Now

Read on to see the full list…

What Are Horsebit Loafers?

Horsebit loafers were first created in the ‘50s by Aldo Gucci after a trip to New York. Back in postwar America, everyone was rocking loafers like they couldn’t get enough of them.

The only problem, Gucci thought, was that they didn’t have any flair. They just looked like Norwegian fisherman shoes—not something a proud Italian could wear.

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He added a gold bit to replace the strap of leather that made the classic penny-loafer style.

Gucci was well known at that time, but the horsebit loafer put the brand over the top. It was an international success.

Jay Butler Suede horsebit loafers close-up

In fact, the horsebit loafer is so closely associated with the Gucci brand, oftentimes people refer to them as Gucci loafers, even when they’re made by another company.

Everything comes full circle, as now you can see dozens of horsebit loafers on display anytime you go to a bar near the Manhattan financial district.

It started in New York, went to Florence for a while, and has landed back in NYC.

3 Things to Consider When Buying Horsebit Loafers

You don’t have to be an investment banker to pull off a pair of horsebit loafers.

These shoes bridge the gap between formal and casual, so you have a variety of options when wearing them. Here are the three main things to consider when you’re looking for a pair of new horsebits.

1. Setting – Where do you work and play?

So maybe you are an investment banker. Hours of yelling ‘buy, buy, sell’ must make you exhausted. But if you’ve got a stunner pair of shoes, no one will be the wiser.

Think about where you’ll be wearing your loafers. Do you plan on having them as your main pair of shoes for work? Do you want them for the rare night out at a fancy restaurant?

Knowing when you intend on wearing your new shoes will determine how much you should spend and what kind of quality you’re looking for.

2. Cost – What’s your budget?

The horsebit loafer is awesome, no doubt, but it’s not an essential shoe. You’ll likely have fewer chances to wear this, so factor that into your budget.

With horsebit loafers, don’t go cheap. The purpose is to show off a bit, and going with something poorly made is going to show.

You don’t have to go crazy and spend your whole paycheck, but make sure you’re getting high-quality shoes that will look great for years to come.

3. Practicality – How often will you wear them?

This goes hand-in-hand with items one and two, but if you’re going to wear them often, invest more into a great pair. If you only plan on wearing them with a specific outfit meant for a special occasion, then you can get away with something less durable.

Then again, we only recommend dropping money on shoes that will last several years. Otherwise, you’re just wasting your time and hard-earned cash.

Tips for Wearing Horsebit Loafers

Horsebit loafers look best with slacks and wool trousers. Since horsebit loafers have worked their way up into more conservative attire, they don’t quite work with jeans.

Horsebit loafers outfits
You can wear horsebit loafers with jeans, but they’re especially great for dressier looks. | He Spoke Style, Wall Street Paper, Noah Williams

In the spring and summer, do as the Italians do and go sockless. If you’re worried your shoes will start getting too funky, wear no-show socks.

In the fall and winter, horsebit loafers look great with thick socks.

We recommend staying away from excessive patterns like polka-dots when it comes to pairing socks and horsebit loafers. The contrasting styles don’t work in this case.

The 5 Best Horsebit Loafers for Men

Here are some of our go-to’s…

1. Jay Butler Millbank Bit Loafer

Jay Butler makes the top of our list because of the value they bring with every shoe. The Millbank loafer is fully lined with leather and extremely comfortable.

Jay Butler Suede loafers

The Blake stitching keeps the profile slim and sleek, and the upper is hand-stitched in the traditional moccasin style.

We were able to try their olive suede, though Jay Butler has brown, tan, and black leather available as well. During the holiday season, the olive suede is going to be a must for the house-party circuit (though the burgundy suede was tempting).

Jay Butler Bit Loafers

The leather horsebit loafers use soft full-grain leather, and while we haven’t tried one of their leather loafers, our experience with Jay Butler tells us they aren’t skimping on the details.

Jay Butler Millbank Bit Loafer

This brand is one of the best values you can get, especially when you’re looking to branch into a less common, higher-echelon shoe like a horsebit loafer.

2. Beckett Simonon Beaumont Horsebit Loafer

Beckett Simonon is another one of our favorites here at The Modest Man. They handcraft each shoe to order, so while it takes a little longer to get your shoe, it’s well worth the wait.

Beckett Simonon Beaumont Horsebit Loafer

These horsebit loafers feature a solid brass bit for a more subdued look than standard gold or silver. They come in five different colorways, all top grain leather with Vachetta interiors for extra breathability.

The Beaumont is a great choice when going sockless through spring and summer and the handmade quality is extraordinary.

3. Rancourt & Co Horsebit Loafer

Rancourt gets most of their leather from the famous Horween tannery in Chicago, but for their horsebit loafer, they bring calfskin leather straight from Italy.

Rancourt & Co Horsebit Loafer

These have a water-tight leather outsole and are treated with oil for scratch and moisture resistance. The Rancourt & Co Horsebit loafer features a Goodyear welt rather than a Blake stitch, so the profile is a little taller.

This shoe is a great blend between the classic American loafer and the Italian fashion icon.

4. Gucci 1953 Horsebit Loafer

Thinking about going with the original? Gucci invented the style after all.

Gucci 1953 Horsebit Loafer

These cost a pretty penny, but they definitely carry a certain status along with them. They feature soft leather—likely calfskin, though the site has little information on it—and Blake stitching.

We recommend Gucci only if you want to cash in on the name. In terms of build quality and general craftsmanship, you can find something similar in Jay Butler and Beckett Simonon at a fraction of the cost.

But there’s only one Gucci, so if that’s important to you, we’re happy to point you to the classic.

5. Idrese Andre

Like Beckett Simonon, Idrese is a relatively new direct-to-consumer footwear brand.

Idrese horsebit loafers
Idrese Andre Horsebit Loafers

Their Goodyear welted horsebit loafer is made in the same workshop as Ferragamo and Louis Vuitton.

Compared to some of the other options on our list, this one is pretty dressy. This sleek loafer will be right at home with a suit and tie.

6. Aldo Baysien

We wanted to add a budget shoe on our list and the Aldo Baysien is squeezing right in.

Aldo Baysien

Aldo has been upping the quality of their shoes recently, though they haven’t always been trustworthy.

We only recommend these if you want a pair of loafers now under $150. But if you can hold off and save just a bit extra, the jump in quality to Jay Butler, Beckett Simonon and Rancourt is tremendous.

Final Thoughts

So there are our six favorite bit loafers—this style of shoe really stands out in a crowd and shows you know style.

Whether you want to go with the original in Gucci, or you want to try a trusted company like Jay Butler, you’re sure to find the right shoe for you here.

Shoes Beckett Simonon, Buying Guides, dress shoes, horsebit loafers, Jay Butler, loafers

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About William Barton

William Barton is a men’s fashion and lifestyle writer who loves helping men navigate the ever-changing world of beard oils, boots and bow-ties.

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  1. K. Bleddyn says

    September 22, 2020 at 6:42 pm

    Dr. Gucci lived in Palm Beach and invented the bridle bit slip-on to be worn as an elegant but casual shoe with no socks, as has been the fashion in PB since before he even invented them They are not dress shoes and look ridiculous when worn with a business suit and/or socks. They are fine with/without a blazer and casual trousers, including jeans and chinos. One visit to PB will inform you.

    Reply
  2. Paul Putman says

    March 29, 2020 at 12:41 pm

    I had a pair of the Gucci loafers several decades ago and while elegant, they didn’t last more than a year with even irregular wear. I quickly limited them to only around the house as they were so fragile.

    Reply

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