Wondering how your dress shirts can be tailored, and how much it will cost you? Here’s everything you need to know.
More In This Series
This guide is part of a series of articles about clothing alterations. Feel free to check out the rest of the series:
Oh, and you if you don’t have a go-to tailor, here’s how to find a tailor you can trust.
Even if you only dress up a few times each year, you need at least a couple of dress shirts that fit well.
Whether worn on its own or with a tie and jacket, a dress shirt that fits properly is one of the most flattering garments a man can wear.
On the flip side, a dress shirt that fits poorly will make any guy look sloppy and careless, regardless of how much he spent on this shirt or how great his physique is.
When it comes to wearing dress shirts, fit is paramount. It’s more important than fabric, price or color.
The best way to make sure your dress shirts fit properly is to get them tailored. Here’s everything you need to know about the process.
How Can Dress Shirts Be Tailored?
I’ve found that a lot of guys don’t realize how much is possible in terms of alterations. They also don’t understand that it is a very affordable solution.
Whether you need to slight adjustments made to a new shirt or want to overhaul that old, billowy button down sitting in the back of your closet, it’s important that you know which aspects of the shirt can be changed.
This graphic explains which parts of a dress shirt can be altered and how much it will cost you (click to enlarge):
There are some other, more advanced alterations that you can make, but I recommend sticking to the basics.
You typically don’t want to spend more money on tailoring fees than you spent on the actual garment, although that’s not a strict rule.
Dress Shirts Alterations Cost
This is going to vary widely depending on where you live, so please take these price estimates with a grain of salt.
Roughly, in an American city or town, here’s how much it will cost to get your dress shirts tailored:
| Alteration | Price Range |
|---|---|
| Replace shirt collar | $30-40 |
| Replace sleeve cuffs | $30-40 |
| Shorten sleeves at wrist | $15-25 |
| Shorten sleeves at shoulder | $35-50 |
| Take in sleeves (make them slimmer) | $15-25 |
| Take in shirt (make it slimmer) | $15-25 |
| Shorten shirt length | $20-30 |
| Replace button | $0-5 |
| Add darts | $15-25 |
Again, these prices are based on my experience living in a few different cities in the U.S. Your mileage will vary!
Here’s a more in-depth explanation of each alteration that can be done:
Shirt Collar
The size (or tightness) of your shirt collar can’t really be altered, as it would require major surgery to other parts of the shirt.
If you need a slightly more snug or loose fit, you can move the top button a few millimeters to the left or right.
The collar can also be replaced entirely if it’s worn out, or if you want a different style (like a contrasting collar).
This is an uncommon alteration, as it’s expensive and typically not worth it.
Shirt Sleeve Length
Dress shirt sleeves can’t be lengthened, but they can be shortened using one of two techniques:
First, they can be shortened from the wrist. This is the easier and more affordable method.
Second, sleeves can be shortened at the shoulder. This involves removing the sleeve from the shirt, so it’s more complicated, difficult and expensive.
This method should only be done by an experienced tailor, and only if you’re worried about ruining the sleeve placket.
Shirt Sleeve Width
If your sleeves are too slim, you can’t fix that at the tailor. You need to buy a bigger shirt.
But if your sleeves are too baggy, you can get them taken in for a slimmer fit through the bicep and forearm.
This is a simple, common alteration that any decent tailor can handle with ease.
Torso Fit (Slimness)
If your shirt is too tight, a tailor won’t be able to help you, as there isn’t any extra fabric to add to the shirt. You’ll need to size up.
But if your shirt is too roomy, you can get it taken in at either side for a slimmer fit through the chest and/or stomach.
This is one of the most common alterations for men’s dress shirts, and it’s very affordable (and worth every penny).
Add Darts
If you have an athletic build (i.e., a significant drop from your chest to waist), you might want to add back darts to your shirts.
These are virtually invisible folds on either side of your lower back that create additional taper around the narrowest part of your torso, helping to produce that athletic “V” shape.
This is a straightforward alteration that any decent tailor can handle. When you get your shirt taken in for a slimmer fit, ask about adding darts.
In some cases, darts may be a better option than taking the shirt in at the sides.
Shirt Length
Both casual button up shirts and dress shirts can be shortened by an experienced tailor.
This may not be an issue for true dress shirts, as you’ll wear these tucked into your pants. But if a casual button up is too long to wear untucked, you can have it shortened.
Just be careful not to shorten it too much, or the bottom button will be too close to the hem line, which throws off the overall proportions of the shirt.
Replacing Buttons
Buttons will come loose, break apart or even fall off after heavy wear. Replacing them is easy and cheap.
Most dry cleaners have a seamstress who can add or replace a button for a few dollars. You can also do this yourself at home for free.
This is one of those alterations that, in my opinion, is worth learning how to do yourself.
Dress Shirts for Shorter Guys
For the shorter gent, it’s hard to find dress shirts that fit. If you can afford it, it’s worth getting your shirts custom made or at least ordering MTM shirts from one of the many online clothiers.
If you can’t afford bespoke clothing just yet, it’s okay. There are plenty of great stores that carry sizes and cuts that flatter the shorter body type. In fact, I keep a running list of the best stores for short men.
Of course, if you buy any clothes off the rack, including dress shirts, you will probably need to get them altered. You may even want to get some of your old clothes altered so you can actually wear them.
Download the "Tailoring 101" PDF Guide
Get all three clothing alterations infographics - dress shirts, jackets and trousers - in one convenient PDF file. Print it out or keep it on your computer/phone so you can reference it anytime. Oh, and it's totally free!
Hey Brock, have you ever seen or heard of a shirt being expanded slightly around the chest? I have a shirt I bought in Italy that I absolutely love, but it’s pulling too much at the buttons. Is there a way to open the 3 way seam in the armpit and add a small bit of fabric?
If a shirt fit’s except for under arm it is billowing.what can b= done?
Is it the sleeves or the torso that has too much material?
I’m 5’4″ weighing 185 pounds with a protruding belly. Sometimes I can wear large but often I need x-large. If I buy x-large the shirt is too long,sleeves too long and material bunches up at the waist. What is my best option?
My god son is 6′ tall but is lean and long. To fit his shoulders he needs a 16-17 neck But then it is to large around. I have sown most of my adult life and have altered clothes for myself but never for men. Can I simply take size out of each side equally. I am considering sewing for him. He likes nice shirts and is really having a hard time finding what he likes that fit. He also wants to dress for the job he wants at work. So looks are important to him
Hi brock. I’m actually trying to shop for my husband and I was wondering about alterations to the shoulders. Too hard? Should I just buy new shirts?
Yeah shoulders are tough, almost never worth it. It will cost too much and many tailors won’t even do it.
Can the cuff size be altered?
I think it could, but it would probably be very expensive and probably not worth it unless you really loved the shirt.
In many cases you can go to a department store like Nordstrom etc and some of their brands will have “Made to Measure” and they will be able to measure you and create a suit specific to your measurements and will have very few polishing tailoring that is required afterwards.
I am 6’2, weight about 210lbs, the shirts fit my neck, but the rest is so loose, looks like i am wearing a garbage bad
Have you tried a local tailor? For most it seems like you can either spend $125+ on tailor made, or an undisclosed amount on adjusting your existing clothing.
Personally, I’ve found it easiest to buy something that fits my shoulders, sleeves, and neck,and get the rest fitted.
Hope that Helps.
Hi Brock,
I was wondering if you think it’s a better deal to buy a shirt that will need some alterations (sleeves shortened and torso taken in at least) or to buy a custom-fit shirt or try to find a brand that fits better right off the bat.
Thanks,
Nick
If it needs multiple alterations, it’s probably easier to buy custom instead. But going custom is a steep learning curve. The first couple will be really hard, but then it’s as easy as clicking a button.
-B
FIT has always pulled it off even on those days im wearing the less likable shirt in my wardrobe. Brock cant be any more clearer.
Fit is King!
Got a question about having a “billowy” shirt taken in on the sides: How fitted should a shirt ideally be? Should there be a couple of inches of extra fabric on the sides? Or should it be as fitted as possible without being too tight?
look at the manicans on store display those are almost always slim fit. add about 15% more room for a more comfortable it but still maintaining that slim look, as you dont want too slim.
I’m 6’4 and lean. Nothing fits me because the only sizes that fit me are for overweight people. Definitely going to look into tailoring my clothes now so I don’t look so sloppy at work anymore. Thank you!
When considering Tailoring, keep in mind that you can always take more off, but once something is too tight, its game over. Generally speaking you want an extra three inches over your chest measurement and about 4-5″ more around the waste and hips. this gives you comfort and your shirt buttons don’t splay, while at the same time giving you that nice slim fit look.
Also, don’t forget the sleeves!
Kevin, please consider using a spellehecker.
Errors in the above (you’re often using commas unnecessarily)
Tailoring / off, but / tight, its/ 4-5″ / waste / this / splay, while
Spellcheckers rock!
Love the idea of taking clothes in. This way you can go to thrift shops and buy used clothes that are a little big for a pittance, then alter them so they fit like they were tailored for you. One of the biggest mistakes schools make is not making sure everyone, whether male or female, graduates with a basic grasp of the functions of the sewing machine. Traditionally this has been relegated to the likes of Home Ec but it shouldn’t be as long as men are wearing clothes which I expect to continue for quite some time, global warming be damned….:)
Yikes, you need an Edit button. I made two errors in my admonition to Kevin to avoid errors! Oh the irony. Oh the pain. Albeit literary, still it hurts. 🙂
spellehecker should be spellchecker
Should be a colon at the end of the second line.
A spell checker is not a usage checker. None of the words in Kevin’s post was spelled incorrectly, just used incorrectly.
I’m 5’9 – 150 lbs. It’s hard, but I’ve found that ordering through online retailers like Bonobos or Frank and Oak – albeit expensive – is the only way I can get clothes that really fit my form. Well… that and Express for Men.
I am 5’6 and weigh 145 pounds. The slim fit traveler dress shirt from Jos. A. Banks fits me perfectly. I get compliments all the time on how sharp I look in those dress shirts!
Hmm last time I was at JAB, nothing fit. I’ll have to check it out again.