Want to Alter Your Dress Shirt for a Better Fit? You'll Need to Know Your Options and What It Will Cost You.
As I've mentioned before, dress shirts are one of the most important parts of any man's wardrobe. Especially crucial for those of us who work in a professional, white collar environment, the button down dress shirt is a classic staple that probably won't ever go away.
For the shorter gent, it's hard to find dress shirts that fit. If you can afford it, it's worth getting your shirts custom made or at least ordering MTM shirts from one of the many online clothiers.
If you can't afford bespoke clothing just yet, it's okay. There are plenty of great stores that carry sizes and cuts that flatter the shorter body type. In fact, I keep a running list of the best stores for short men.
Of course, if you buy any clothes off the rack, including dress shirts, you will probably need to get them altered. You may even want to get some of your old clothes altered so you can actually wear them.
What Can Be Done?
I've found that a lot of guys don't realize how much is possible in terms of alterations. They also don't understand that it is a very affordable solution. Whether you need to slight adjustments made to a new shirt or want to overhaul that old, billowy button down sitting in the back of your closet, it's important that you know which aspects of the shirt can be changed.
This graphic explains which parts of a dress shirt can be altered and how much it will cost you (click to enlarge):
There are some other, more advanced alterations that you can make, but I recommend sticking to the basics. You typically don't want to spend more money on tailoring fees that you spent on the actual garment, although that's not a strict rule.
More in this series:
Alterations 101: Pants and Trousers
Alterations 101: Suit Jackets and Blazers
Download the "Tailoring 101" PDF Guide
Get all three clothing alterations infographics - dress shirts, jackets and trousers - in one convenient PDF file. Print it out or keep it on your computer/phone so you can reference it anytime. Oh, and it's totally free!
Sean says
November 15, 2014 at 2:20 amI am 5’6 and weigh 145 pounds. The slim fit traveler dress shirt from Jos. A. Banks fits me perfectly. I get compliments all the time on how sharp I look in those dress shirts!
Brock says
November 17, 2014 at 11:23 amHmm last time I was at JAB, nothing fit. I’ll have to check it out again.
SC says
February 16, 2015 at 9:26 pmI’m 5’9 – 150 lbs. It’s hard, but I’ve found that ordering through online retailers like Bonobos or Frank and Oak – albeit expensive – is the only way I can get clothes that really fit my form. Well… that and Express for Men.
Julio P says
March 1, 2015 at 11:44 pmI’m 6’4 and lean. Nothing fits me because the only sizes that fit me are for overweight people. Definitely going to look into tailoring my clothes now so I don’t look so sloppy at work anymore. Thank you!
Kevin says
February 18, 2016 at 6:41 pmWhen considering Tailoring, keep in mind that you can always take more off, but once something is too tight, its game over. Generally speaking you want an extra three inches over your chest measurement and about 4-5″ more around the waste and hips. this gives you comfort and your shirt buttons don’t splay, while at the same time giving you that nice slim fit look.
Also, don’t forget the sleeves!
Bob says
May 10, 2018 at 1:46 pmKevin, please consider using a spellehecker.
Errors in the above (you’re often using commas unnecessarily)
Tailoring / off, but / tight, its/ 4-5″ / waste / this / splay, while
Spellcheckers rock!
Love the idea of taking clothes in. This way you can go to thrift shops and buy used clothes that are a little big for a pittance, then alter them so they fit like they were tailored for you. One of the biggest mistakes schools make is not making sure everyone, whether male or female, graduates with a basic grasp of the functions of the sewing machine. Traditionally this has been relegated to the likes of Home Ec but it shouldn’t be as long as men are wearing clothes which I expect to continue for quite some time, global warming be damned….:)
Bob says
May 10, 2018 at 1:49 pmYikes, you need an Edit button. I made two errors in my admonition to Kevin to avoid errors! Oh the irony. Oh the pain. Albeit literary, still it hurts. 🙂
spellehecker should be spellchecker
Should be a colon at the end of the second line.
Tom C. says
October 7, 2018 at 12:16 pmA spell checker is not a usage checker. None of the words in Kevin’s post was spelled incorrectly, just used incorrectly.
Ted M. says
April 23, 2015 at 12:27 amGot a question about having a “billowy” shirt taken in on the sides: How fitted should a shirt ideally be? Should there be a couple of inches of extra fabric on the sides? Or should it be as fitted as possible without being too tight?
elton says
May 14, 2015 at 4:30 pmlook at the manicans on store display those are almost always slim fit. add about 15% more room for a more comfortable it but still maintaining that slim look, as you dont want too slim.
Cliff Kasozi says
May 30, 2015 at 4:08 amFIT has always pulled it off even on those days im wearing the less likable shirt in my wardrobe. Brock cant be any more clearer.
Kevin says
February 18, 2016 at 6:37 pmFit is King!
Nick Pistone says
July 23, 2015 at 4:59 pmHi Brock,
I was wondering if you think it’s a better deal to buy a shirt that will need some alterations (sleeves shortened and torso taken in at least) or to buy a custom-fit shirt or try to find a brand that fits better right off the bat.
Thanks,
Nick
Brock says
July 24, 2015 at 9:20 amIf it needs multiple alterations, it’s probably easier to buy custom instead. But going custom is a steep learning curve. The first couple will be really hard, but then it’s as easy as clicking a button.
-B
Jesus says
January 31, 2016 at 10:38 pmI am 6’2, weight about 210lbs, the shirts fit my neck, but the rest is so loose, looks like i am wearing a garbage bad
Kevin says
February 18, 2016 at 6:34 pmHave you tried a local tailor? For most it seems like you can either spend $125+ on tailor made, or an undisclosed amount on adjusting your existing clothing.
Personally, I’ve found it easiest to buy something that fits my shoulders, sleeves, and neck,and get the rest fitted.
Hope that Helps.
Sarah says
March 25, 2016 at 12:44 pmIn many cases you can go to a department store like Nordstrom etc and some of their brands will have “Made to Measure” and they will be able to measure you and create a suit specific to your measurements and will have very few polishing tailoring that is required afterwards.
RAY says
September 1, 2016 at 8:29 pmCan the cuff size be altered?
Brock says
September 1, 2016 at 8:57 pmI think it could, but it would probably be very expensive and probably not worth it unless you really loved the shirt.
Tomi says
September 14, 2016 at 11:41 amHi brock. I’m actually trying to shop for my husband and I was wondering about alterations to the shoulders. Too hard? Should I just buy new shirts?
Brock says
September 14, 2016 at 11:42 amYeah shoulders are tough, almost never worth it. It will cost too much and many tailors won’t even do it.
Lynda Janzen says
December 30, 2016 at 11:32 amMy god son is 6′ tall but is lean and long. To fit his shoulders he needs a 16-17 neck But then it is to large around. I have sown most of my adult life and have altered clothes for myself but never for men. Can I simply take size out of each side equally. I am considering sewing for him. He likes nice shirts and is really having a hard time finding what he likes that fit. He also wants to dress for the job he wants at work. So looks are important to him
Jim Richardson says
October 31, 2017 at 1:48 pmI’m 5’4″ weighing 185 pounds with a protruding belly. Sometimes I can wear large but often I need x-large. If I buy x-large the shirt is too long,sleeves too long and material bunches up at the waist. What is my best option?
Stanley Amos says
November 3, 2017 at 11:18 pmIf a shirt fit’s except for under arm it is billowing.what can b= done?
Brock says
November 6, 2017 at 11:07 pmIs it the sleeves or the torso that has too much material?
John says
June 14, 2019 at 12:29 amHey Brock, have you ever seen or heard of a shirt being expanded slightly around the chest? I have a shirt I bought in Italy that I absolutely love, but it’s pulling too much at the buttons. Is there a way to open the 3 way seam in the armpit and add a small bit of fabric?