Online made-to-measure shirts can be confusing and intimidating. No worries! Here are some tips to navigate this potentially helpful resource!
When it comes to buying a dress shirt, or even a suit, that fits properly, smaller gents have two options. They can either buy an inexpensive shirt off the rack and have it altered by a local tailor. Or, they can have a custom shirt made just for them, either bespoke or made-to-measure shirts online.
I debate which option works best. Often, the total amount of money needed to achieve a perfect fit is about the same. Custom shirts are more expensive, but even simple alterations can add up and become pricey.
Bespoke shirts are literally made just for you from scratch. Made-to-measure (or MTM) shirts, which are what you’ll get from most online retailers, are not truly bespoke but better than off-the-rack.
That said, buying MTM shirts from online retailers is worth investigating. Some of my favorite button-down shirts are from a handful of online shirtmakers who focus on fit and quality. Of course, there are plenty of “custom clothes makers” who make cheap, ill-fitting shirts that aren’t worth the money. Here are my tips on buying and navigating certain brands. It’s all about getting your right fit!
What Exactly are Made-to-Measure Shirts?
Like made-to-measure suits, an MTM shirt is made from existing patterns and styles, then altered to you specifically. It takes into account your body type and shape, ensuring a personalized and flattering fit. It may take one or two fittings, but it’s a lot faster than going full bespoke. Bespoke starts from scratch. The fabric and pattern are sourced based on what you want rather than chosen from a selection in the studio. It may take several alternations, fits, and even restarts to get to the final product.
Basically, MTM is a bit like a choose-your-adventure book. While there’s a limited amount of pathways you can take, you’re in control within these limits. It’s still more personal than shopping at the department store. Meanwhile, bespoke is like writing a brand new book based on your ideas. Your tailor is like your ghostwriter.
I think the MTM approach democratizes personalized shirts and allows you to do it via affordable online retailers. This also makes it more convenient. It’s a better option for those of us who have a hard time fitting into standard sizes, whether we’re bigger or shorter. At least, it’s better than off-the-rack and more affordable than bespoke.
However, I understand that taking your own measurements and sending them to an online retailer can be intimidating. There’s nothing worse than getting a garment delivered to your house only to see it doesn’t fit. The disappointment is exacerbated when you’ve at least tried to get it right. Here are some tips on measuring.
Tips on Buying Made-to-Measure Shirts Online
Truthfully, some of the best MTM websites have excellent instructions on how to take your own measurements. They’ll walk you step-by-step, from the neck, to the chest and waist, to your arms.
If that’s the case, my first tip is to get a soft tape measure and follow those instructions. Don’t use a hard tape measure that comes out of a metal case. That’s for interior design, not clothes. Also, make sure to have a friend help you get the most accurate measurements.
Some MTM websites allow you to buy the shirt using standard sizing—XS, S, M, L, XL. They’ll usually have a wider range than mall stores. However, my second piece of advice is to avoid this. You have the opportunity to go for a more personalized fit. Take it.
Get Your Sleeve Measurement
There are two ways to get your proper sleeve measurement. This is different than a jacket sleeve since you want your shirt sleeves to extend further than your suit jacket arms do. Typically, the shirt will be about one centimeter longer.
Some shirt makers will ask for your sleeve length, starting from the nape of your neck down to the thickest part of the side of your hand. Some will ask you to start at your shoulder socket. If that’s the case, they’ll then ask you for a shoulder-to-shoulder measurement separately, which you’ll do from the back. Again, it helps to have a partner for this.
Either way, make sure you’re standing up straight but relaxed. Don’t stand at attention. You want to be as natural as possible. When you’re bringing the tape down from your shoulder, stop and hold it at your elbow before bringing it down to your hand.
The second way? Just take an already perfectly fitted shirt and measure those sleeves.
You Might Need Your Bicep and Wrist Measurements
Sometimes, MTM retailers will simply ask your height, weight, and what fit you want. Other times, they’ll ask for actual arm girths.
To measure your bicep, wrap the tape measure around the widest point of your upper arm.
Then, to measure your wrist, you’ll wrap the measure around your wrist bone. Pro tip: If you’re like James Bond (or me) and wear a dive watch with your dress shirt, you may want to add an extra three to four centimeters to the measurement.
Get Your Neck Measurement
Place the tape around the base of your neck, where it meets your shoulders. Place two fingers between the tape measure and your neck. Without the two fingers, your measurement will be too tight. You want to be able to wear the collar closed, with a tie, or without a tie.
Get your Body Measurement
And finally, you want to get the measurements for the body. Like your sleeves, if you’ve done this before, you can simply measure an actual shirt that you’ve had made or tailored for you. However, I’m assuming you’re here because you haven’t, or you need a refresher.
When you’re doing this, make sure you’re shirtless or wearing a thin undershirt-type top. Start with your chest. Stand up straight, relax, and keep your arms down by your sides. Wrap the tape measure around your chest, right under your underarms. Make sure you’re creating a straight line all the way around with the tape measure. Keep it close to your body but not tightly wrapped.
Now, you’ll do the same with your waist. Again, make sure the tape measure is straight all the way around and close but not tight.
As tempting as it may be for some of us, don’t hold your stomach in unless you want to have to do that the entire time you’re wearing your shirt. If you’re broader in the waist and stomach area, measure at the widest point. It’s like being at the doctor. You have to be 100% honest so that you get the exact right prescription. Regardless of your body type, getting honest measurements will ensure the shirt is optimally flattering.
Then, you’ll measure your hip area. Remember, this entire time, you’re standing up straight but in a relaxed manner. You’ll measure your hips at the widest point. Don’t forget to empty your pockets when you do this.
Finally, measure your length. You’ll start where the collar seam hits your neck and move the tape measure down to where you want the shirt to end.
Best Online Made-To-Measure Shirts
Now, you have some measurement best practices in your back pocket. Here are some of the best online made-to-measure shirts to consider.
Modern Tailor is one of the lower-priced MTM shirtmakers on the internet. They offer a range of styles, including collars, fits, and sleeves. Their guide on measuring yourself for your shirts is clear and helpful.
Blank Label shirts cost from $95 to $225. You can choose from standard or extra premium shirts. They also offer more casual designs, such as gingham, and more formal solids.
Proper Cloth has helpful video guides, a bunch of customization options, and offers your first remake for free. So, no worries if you don’t get it perfect the first time. They also offer seven methods of finding your size. One option is mailing them your shirt so they can save your profile. (Here’s our Proper Cloth review.)
Spier and Mackay do excellent dress shirts and suiting. They have over 200 fabrics to choose from too. (Check out our Spier and Mackay brand review here.)
Black Lapel offers luxurious fabrics like cashmere, linens, silk, and Egyptian cotton. It also has a showroom in Manhattan. (Read our article on Black Lapel for more information.)
FAQs
Do you still have questions about MTM shirts? No problem. Here are some answers to commonly asked questions. Even if we’ve answered them already, you can use this section as an at-a-glance resource!
What Is the Difference Between Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Shirts?
A bespoke shirt is made from scratch, with the fabric and style coming straight from the buyer’s request. A made-to-measure shirt offers a lot of customization. However, it isn’t from scratch. The buyer will choose a fabric from the shirtmaker’s library and customize the style based on what options are available.
Where Can I Find Good Quality Shirts?
The best quality shirts are indeed bespoke shirts. However, you can always buy high-quality shirts from trusted heritage brands and then have them tailored. MTM shirts are a nice middle-ground. Some good online MTM shirtmakers include Modern Tailor, Blank Label, and Black Lapel.
Conclusion: A Perfectly Respectable Middle-Ground
Made-to-measure shirts online are a way to get a shirt that’s more personalized than something you’d get at a mall. However, they’re far less time-consuming and less expensive than a bespoke shirt.
Whether or not they’re better than getting a nice shirt from a high-end store tailored is really case by case. Usually, though, you get what you pay for.
Questions? Comments? Let us know below!
