Looking to branch out from baseball hats and try something new? Consider getting a cowboy hat!
The cowboy hat is a symbol of Western culture that has captured the imagination for generations. It stands for freedom, grit, hard work, and independence.
Since it evokes a certain old-school gravitas, the thought of owning one makes some people feel intimidated.
Although it’s called a “cowboy hat”, it’s not just for rough riders. Yes, cowboys use them to shade their faces during long days on the ranch, but that’s not their only purpose.
There are so many different types of cowboy hats, and here we’ll discuss how to choose the right one for you and how to wear it with style and swagger.
The History of Cowboy Hats
Legend has it that a man named John Stetson designed the first cowboy hat in 1865.
Stetson, a well-esteemed hatmaker from New Jersey, experimented with many different hat designs. In the end, he masterminded the “Boss of the Plains”.
The Boss of the Plans was a hat with a wide, flat brim and a tall, straight-sided crown that stretched high over the wearer. Sound familiar?
While it was different than modern cowboy hats, it was a step in the right direction.
Stetson marketed this hat to those all over the country. But, after seeing it catch on in the West, he targeted his advertising there.
Other wide-brimmed hats, such as bowler hats, were commonly worn by cowboys and people riding horses at the time. So, he began to target the cowboy community.
As the 19th century came to an end, the “Boss of the Plains” was by far the most popular hat in America.
Seen on popular figures such as Theodore Roosevelt, Buffalo Bill, and Will Rogers, they were a great symbol to display the cowboy lifestyle and culture.
Anatomy of a Cowboy Hat
Here are all of the different components that make up the classic cowboy hat:
Crown
The crown is the dome directly over the head that fits around the top of the head.
Crease
The dip in the hat at the top of the crown is called the crease. It can vary in size and shape. A hat without a crease is referred to as a “ten-gallon hat.”
Brim
The brim extends away from the head from the base of the crown. It protects the face from the sun.
Band
The band is largely a stylistic component. It is a cord or a strip of material that wraps around the hat where the crown meets the brim. The band can have buckles, metal, colors, or other ornamental features.
Dent
Dents are located on the top of the crown and to the sides of the crease.
Traditionally, hats were not made with dents; rather, they formed over time from wear. Most modern hats are sold with dents.
Front Dip
The front of the brim will commonly dip downwards, which is called the front dip.
This makes the hat hang lower over the face.
Roll
You will see the hat roll upwards on the ends of the brim sides. These are called, you guessed it, rolls. They vary among different hat styles.
Cowboy Hat Materials
Most hats are made of either felt or straw. Both have their pros and cons and are great for different reasons.
Felt
Felt hats are warmer hats used primarily in colder weather. They are made from wool or fur felt. The most desirable fur for hats is beaver, thanks to its water-resistant qualities and durability.
When buying a felt hat, if you look at the inside, you should see some “X’s”. For example, “XXX” or “XXXXX”.
This is the rating system for felt hats, as each X represents 10% of beaver fur. For example, XXX would mean 30% beaver fur, which is less valuable than an XXXXX hat (50% beaver fur). The rest of the percentage commonly comes from hare fur or other materials.
Felt hats are generally more expensive than straw hats. However, if you are looking for a warmer or waterproof option, felt hats are definitely a necessity.
Straw Hats
If you are wanting a hat to wear in warmer weather, then you are looking for a straw hat. Straw hats are made of different varieties of durable straw.
Straw hats are generally less expensive because they are made of a less expensive material. Do not be scared, though; there are still some very high-quality straw hats (some even more stylish than their felt counterparts).
If you want a practical hat to work outside in during the summertime, then this is the hat material for you. With it being made out of straw, it is lighter and allows for more airflow to the head.
I grew up near several conservative Amish communities. I observed that men swapped their cold-weather felt hats for straw ones in the summer. While not exactly cowboy hats, the same principle applies.
They wore straw hats to work their fields, build houses, or just stop at the gas station for a slice of pizza.
Here, a non-Amish man receives a custom straw hat. Just look at the quality of that craftsmanship!
I was always a bit jealous of how comfortable the hats seemed on hot, humid days — providing constant shade to each
Types of Cowboy Hats
After deciding on the material of your hat, you must also consider two other important features — the brim and the crown.
When choosing, keep in mind that deciding which is best for you will mainly come down to personal preference and taste.
Brim Shapes
There are a variety of different brim shapes for different purposes.
Western
The Western brim is a very traditional look, with a low rolled brim that protects the face well from the sun.
Bull Rider
The bull rider’s brim is flat, with the very ends rolled up and the very front flat as well.
Reiner Low Sides
The Reiner Low Sides is similar to the Bull Rider.
The difference is that the ends roll up more, and there’s a wider brim.
Quarter Horse (Show Crease)
The Quarter Horse has a very steep roll that angles high off of the head.
Flat (Buckaroo)
The Buckaroo is a completely flat brim, with the appearance of not being shaped at all.
Rancher
The Rancher has a curved shape rolling up the sides.
This is opposed to the Bull Rider and Reiner, which have angled sides.
Rolled
The Rolled Brim is the same as a Quarter Horse, except with a rounded brim.
Crown Shapes
Now that you understand the different brim types, the last step is to select your crown style.
Cattleman Crease
The Cattleman Crease is the traditional cowboy hat look.
It has three creases running from the front to the back of the crown (one crease, two dents).
Brick Crease
The Brick Crease has an indentation on top of the hat that resembles the shape of a rectangular brick.
The Dakota
The Dakota is similar to the Brick Crease, except it has a pinch on each of the four points of the rectangular indent.
Pinch Front
The Pinch Front hat has an indentation on top of the hat in the shape of a teardrop.
It is wider in the back and comes to a point in the front.
Gus
The Gus has a pinch front that raises a bit higher and slopes down towards the front.
Gambler
Usually put on a flat-brimmed hat, the gambler has a flat top.
Boss of the Plains
The Boss of the Plains has no crease but a rounded shape.
What to Wear With a Cowboy Hat
A cowboy hat can be a functional or stylistic choice. Either way, it should match the rest of your outfit.
For a casual look, pair your hat with jeans and a T-shirt. This is a timeless look. Add boots to really feel the Western spirit.
If you are on a ranch, you will be wearing your hat with whatever you are wearing for the working or riding conditions at the time.
Cowboy hats can be worn in some formal settings, but should be done very carefully. Typically, the event should carry some sort of Western theme or be in a Western setting.
For more on Western clothing and how to style it, check out this article.
FAQ
Here are some questions that commonly come up about cowboy hats, starting with questions about hat etiquette:
When Do I Wear My Hat?
Wear your hat outside, take it off inside. Taking off your hat is also a sign of respect.
If you are meeting someone for the first time, at a formal event, participating in a prayer, or hearing the national anthem, these are all good times to take your hat off.
How Do I Take off My Hat?
This may seem like a silly question, but it is important. Remove your hat by the crown. After you’ve taken it off, keep the interior of the hat face down so it remains out of view.
How Do I Store My Hat?
The best way to store your cowboy hat is upside down, with the crown on the bottom and the brim on top. This will protect the brim from losing its shape.
How Should I Size My Cowboy Hat?
It is always best to try on your hat before buying it. You want the hat to be snug on your head so it won’t fall off. You also don’t want it so tight that it hurts to wear for long periods of time.
What Are Some Good Brands of Cowboy Hats?
The most recognizable brand of hat is Stetson. There are many other reputable brands, though, a few of them being Justin, Resistol, and Justin.
How Do I Take Care of My Cowboy Hat?
Wiping the sweatband around the inside of your hat is a great way to extend the life of your hat. Feel free to brush the outside of the hat with a brush to get debris and dirt off. For the best protection of your hat, hard cases are a great option for storage and transportation.
Which Is the Front and Back of the Hat?
The back of the hat is commonly marked with a bow on the inner lining of the hat.
Now, Mosey On, and Go Get Yourself a Hat!
While it can be overwhelming to see all the different types and styles of cowboy hats out there, don’t get stressed by all the intricacies. At the end of the day, look for a hat that just looks good on you.
I hope that this helped you select a cowboy hat. Choosing one to wear is an exciting time. Ask anyone who owns a cowboy hat, and they’ll tell you that there’s no cooler feeling than wearing a new one.
What other hat-related articles do you want to read here at The Modest Man? Let me know in the comments!
Ask Me Anything