Short Men and Low Rise Pants

[Editor's Note: This is a guest post written by Robert Reeve from Style Pilot. I've played around with Style Pilot, and it looks like an awesome tool for finding specific outfits and matching garments. There is more info about Robert and Style Pilot after the end of the article.]

Are Low Rise Trousers the Only Option for Shorter Guys?

For us shorter guys, the biggest problem we often face is in finding trousers that fit us nicely, without having to spend a fortune taking them to the tailors to be adjusted so that they don’t look ridiculous. While a trip to have your trousers altered may well turn out to be the inevitable endgame of a shopping trip, what other top tips will allow you to buy the best trousers to make the most of your modest height?

To Rise or Not to Rise?

Generally speaking, the advice given to shorter guys when it comes to trousers is to go for low rise options at all times. Why is it then, that so many short guys follow this advice yet still end up looking and feeling rather uncomfortable? The clue is to forget the legs for a moment, and take a look at your torso.

Getting Your Style in Proportion

Short Rise ChinosWhat does your upper body look like in relation to your legs – is it in proportion, smaller, or does it appear bigger? By understanding this, you will be able to choose trousers much easier and ensure that any alterations you need will be minimal.

If your legs are short in proportion to your body, then choose a trouser that will sit a little higher. We are not talking about pulling them up to the point of looking like Simon Cowell, and you want to avoid looking too computer-geek, but it will make you look better.

On the other hand, should your legs be in proportion or appear longer than your body, then low rise is definitely the way to go. However, choosing low rise is only a part of finding the perfect trousers for your short frame.

Finding Fits

Rolled ChinosAs well as the rise, you also need to carefully consider the fit of your trousers. Hopefully you already know that you should be avoiding skinny trousers and denims – if not, then heed the warning now.

To elongate your legs you are best going for straight leg and boot fit styles. Should you take your trousers to the tailor, ensure that they fit in such a way that your trouser leg breaks a little over the shoe, this will make you look taller.

Our final tip is vital when it comes to formal trousers. Avoid trousers with cuffs at the bottom, at all costs. Every inch that the trouser turns up is two inches off of your height in terms of perception, a style nightmare if ever there was one.

[Stylepilot is an online start-up designed specifically for men to navigate fashion online and also provides mens fashion tips.]

Short Man Style - How to Achieve the Perfect Fit

Alterations 101: Men’s Dress Pants, Trousers and Slacks

How Can a Pair of Men’s Dress Pants Be Altered, and What Is It Going to Cost Me?

As with dress shirts, a man’s trousers should be altered to fit the individual as well as possible. It’s important to know how exactly your slacks can be tailored to fit your shape and size. Otherwise, you might discard a pair of pants that are too tight.

Or, for example, you might be too concerned with buying pants that are the right length when you should be paying attention to the seat and rise, as these are much harder to fix.

What Aspects of Dress Pants Can Be Changed?

The first post I ever wrote for this site - The #1 Most Important Fashion Tip for Short Men - you know how easy and cheap it is to get your pants hemmed. Most guys understand that their slacks can and should be adjusted to the proper length.

But do you know what else can be adjusted? This graphic explains what’s possible and how much you’ll have to spend:

Men's Dress Pants Alterations

With any alterations, the most important thing is your tailor. Be sure to find an experienced tailor who you can trust. If you are in need of the “basic” alterations – hemming pants for length or taking in the waist – your dry cleaner can probably help. If you need anything more advanced, definitely go to a real tailor.

I hope that you found this helpful. Feel free to share with your fellow man!

P.S. The pants in the above graphic are the Molino Gray Plaid Dress Pants by Indochino.

P.P.S. If you missed my graphic about dress shirt alterations, check it out right here.

Short Man Style - How to Achieve the Perfect Fit

Review: Banana Republic Emerson Vintage Straight Chino

BR Emerson Chino

BR Emerson Vintage Straight Chino

Banana Republic has always been hit or miss for me, at least in terms of size. For the most part, their style is cool, if not a bit on the preppy side. But their pants have never fit me quite right (with the exception of their suit pants, after getting the legs hemmed).

They are usually too baggy or “relaxed”. Even their “modern” fit seems too wide through the leg. I’ve always enjoyed buying shirts, especially polos, from BR, but never pants. Until now.

Allow me to introduce the Emerson Vintage Straight Chino. I bought a dark grey pair of these a few weeks ago and actually went back to the store to grab a couple more in different colors.

They are quite possibly the most comfortable pants I’ve ever worn. Plus they look great and are super durable. I have worn these pants to work (on Fridays, of course), on dates, to the bar and just to lounge around.

The best thing about the Emerson Chinos are their fit. For a shorter guy like me, baggy pants won’t do. They only make me look smaller. Skinny pants, however, are too extreme. Any man who says skinny jeans are comfortable is lying, and I’m pretty sure they will effect your ability to have children if worn too long.

Shorter guys need pants that are tapered evenly and modestly throughout the leg. These chinos are slim through the thigh with a straight leg opening. Also, if you order them online, you can get sizes down to 28×28.

I like the “Sharp grey” and “Brockton beige” (not just because of the name) colors, but definitely grab a few if you like the way they look and fit. Another great thing about these pants is that they look great with the legs rolled up.

If they are too long and you don’t want to get them shortened, just roll them up a couple of time. This works especially well with loafers, boat shoes, sandals or bare feet.

Go try them on and buy a couple of pairs before they go away! You can see them online right here.

Short Man Style - How to Achieve the Perfect Fit

5 Tips for Finding the Best Jeans for Short Men

The Style Blogger in Denim

The Style Blogger in Denim

Alright, gentlemen, let’s tackle jeans. This is probably the one question I see the most: “What are best brand/type of jeans for short men?” It’s an important question because jeans are so versatile.

They are such a crucial piece of our wardrobe. You can wear them in so many ways, with so many outfits and for so many different occasions, which is why it’s essential to have at least a couple of pairs that fit you perfectly and that you feel great in.

There are already a handful of helpful guides out there about buying jeans for different body types, like this one. And this one. Oh, and definitely check out this one.

So rather than reinventing the wheel, I’m going to dumb it down into five simple rules for buying jeans for short guys. Consider this the essential jean-buying guide for men of modest height:

  1. Stay away from baggy jeans. They won’t make you look bigger. In fact, they’ll make you look like a teenager who is trying to look bigger. If the word “relaxed” appears anywhere on the tags, walk away.
  2. Flare is your friend. A slight flare or boot cut can fill out your silhouette by adding width in the right places without looking baggy.
  3. Try straight leg. Many short men, especially those with average builds, look great in straight leg jeans. They’re not too tight, not too baggy. Just right.
  4. It’s all about the rise. While low rise jeans are trendy due to their modern, stylish look, they’re not for everyone. Rise is as important as length, but unlike length it’s not easily altered. Find a brand whose “low rise” works for you (my personal favorite is Lucky Brand).
  5. You can’t go wrong with dark wash. Light jeans are great for the casual affairs, but dark jeans can be worn anywhere. On casual Fridays, first dates, to the game, etc. Also, dark pants with a lighter shirt can have a heightening affect.

There you have it. Follow these five simple rules next time you are shopping for that perfect pair of jeans, and I guarantee you will be happy with your purchase. Make sure to buy a couple of pairs so you don’t have to hunt them down again next year.

Short Man Style - How to Achieve the Perfect Fit

The #1 Most Important Fashion Tip for Short Men

Jonah Hill at the Oscars

What’s wrong with this suit?

There are a ton of little tricks, hacks and DIY solutions that you can use to make your clothes fit better, but BY FAR the most important one is this:

Get your pants hemmed.

It’s quick, easy and cheap, and there is no excuse not to do it. In fact, EVERY guy should be getting their pants hemmed. No matter how tall you are, it is rarely the case that clothes fit perfectly off the rack.

But we’re not talking about every guy…we’re talking about those of us on the shorter side. The problem we have is one of proportion. For example, say you are 5’6” and have a relatively athletic build. Not skinny, but definitely not fat. Not a bodybuilder, but fit. You might need a pair of pants with a 29” waist and a 28.5” inseam.

Good luck finding these at Banana Republic.

Instead, you will most likely have to settle on some 30×30 trousers, or maybe you will get lucky and snag a pair of 29×30.

Now, it’s not a big deal if the waist is an inch or so too big. Just wear a belt. But if the legs are too long, it will ruin your entire getup. When short men wear oversized clothes (like pants that are too long), it accentuates their shortness, which is obviously not what we want.

Just look at Jonah Hill’s red carpet photo above. He looks amazing in that black-on-black suit with a bow tie, but the pants are too long! I don’t know who overlooked this detail, but it ruins the whole outfit. It’s distracting and takes away from the overall look.

On the flip side, when your pants are hemmed to stop right past the top of your shoes, they actually compliment your figure and produce a heightening effect.

Adam Lampell

Adam keeps his pants and sleeves extra short to elongate his body. (Courtesy of The Style Blogger)

If you’re not yet convinced that you should have every pair of pants you own hemmed, pay attention next you go out in public. Look at random guys (try not to be creepy). Pay close attention to the length of their pants.

Are they bunched up around the shoe? Do they drag on the floor? Are there multiple breaks in the fabric running down the leg?

I guarantee you will notice how much better it looks to have that tailored, put together look that can only be accomplished with custom alteration.

Convinced? Good. Now let’s talk about how to get your pants hemmed.

You can go about this one of two ways.

  1. Pay someone else to do it
  2. Do it yourself

Most dry cleaners will do minor alterations (hemming pants is as basic as it gets) for a very reasonable fee. I wouldn’t pay more than $15-20 for this. If you have a really nice pair of dress pants, you can go to an actual tailor (found at any suit or tuxedo shop) and pay a little more to make sure the job is done right.

I recommend taking an old pair of jeans – like that pair you bought from American Eagle three years ago that never really fit right – and testing our your local dry cleaners alteration skills. Make sure they keep the original hem! This is important, so I’ll say it again:

When you get your pants altered, make sure they keep the original hem.

Otherwise, your pants will end abruptly, as if you folded them under to shorten them. Obviously, this doesn’t apply to pants with no hem (like many modern pairs of dress pants).

If you are crafty, want to learn a new skill or just like saving money, you can easily hem your pants at home. There are a ton of great “how-to” guides and videos out there that explain this process. Like this one:

*For all of you young gentlemen out there who are still growing, there is a way to alter pants that allows you to “let them out” later on. This means you can buy them long, have them shortened, then restore them to their original length when you get taller. If you are still growing, make sure to ask your tailor (or mom) to preserve your pants in this way.

For what’s it worth, I prefer to pay someone else to handle my alteration needs. I’m a “time is money” kind of guy, and I don’t own a sewing machine, so I’m always happy to pay my dry cleaner twenty bucks to take this task off my plate. It’s part of my routine now:

Whenever I buy a new pair of pants, I take them to the cleaners during my normal weekly dropoff, get measured (or, to save time, just bring a pair of similar pants that have already been shortened to an ideal length), and pick up my perfect-fitting pants a few days later.

Homework: Take one pair of pants to your local tailor or dry cleaner, get measured and have them shorten them to the appropriate length. Then, leave a comment below to share how much of a difference it made!

Short Man Style - How to Achieve the Perfect Fit